A Sherbet-Sweet Spring

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The New York Sun

Rainbow sherbet might not be a city gal’s go-to color palette, but if anyone could change that, it would be Michael Kors. His spring collection was dotted with bright pieces from a lime v-neck pullover to a guava and apricot empire-waist gown. But it was tempered with more muted pieces, such as a navy coat with big gold buttons, and a skirt made of navy lamé that appeared silver. This collection seemed to emphasize the Kors sportswear range: Some pieces hew to tradition (short sleeved safari jackets), while others veer into hippie-dippie freedom (an indigo tiedye strapless dress). Some are all about sport (a white and yellow tennis dress), and others are for full-on glamour (all manner of colorful red-carpet gowns). And as these ensembles were making their way across the runway, the DJ was spinning Oliva Newton John’s “Xanadu” theme song. It makes a certain kind of sense: The Kors world is full of unfettered good times — roller skates welcome.

J. Mendel speaks to a world of equally good times, but with a more uptown accent. These exquisite pieces are for ultrafeminine creatures — minus the roller skates. Furs made a limited but beautiful showing: A white mink vest trimmed with patent leather latticework, as well as a slate broadtail coat, stood out. This collection let the dresses have center stage. A hot pink silk mousseline dress accented with poppies had a soft flow, and an acid orange halter with sunburst pleats displayed expert handiwork.

Peter Som’s spring collection emphasized a certain boxy, structured approach that may have been a result of the fabrics. Floral jacquards and metallic brocades were worked into coats, jackets, and dresses. All pretty, yes, but somehow restricted. A seersucker and satin dress was a notable exception. And the garments made of the silk-chiffon tweed, which looked more like tiny stripes of color between bands of cream fabric, loosened up the mood.


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