Summertime Brights
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
Fashion collections for the warm-weather seasons lend themselves to brighter colors than the cold-weather seasons. But even with all the bold shades, abstract prints, and floral patterns that designers have been showing during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, black and white turned up just as often. If color palettes rather than hemlines were read as a financial indicator, the message would simple: cautiously exuberant.
At Carolina Herrera, suits and dresses in deep orange silk organza offered instant color therapy, as did the bright teal used for a cascading gown and a strapless dress. Like a vase of huge sunflowers, Ms. Herrera’s gowns in marigold yellow — with cascades of ruffles rippling down the body — seemed to offer a sense of sunny optimism.
But the colorful garments were set in relief against several pieces in black and white. Wide-leg pants in a white flowing fabric were paired with a white button-down embroidered with black beads — creating the illustion of a shirt with black printed stripes. Worn with a wide black belt, it had the simplicity and chic that Ms. Herrera creates so well. Floral embroidery on several dresses — yellow flowers on a black cocktail dress and black flowers on a white silk gown — was festive but not frilly. A black raffia was used for a stunning ensemble of a bustier with a evening skirt in multiple layers of tulle and ruffle.
Those ruffles at times went a bit awry: Some seemed to jut out at angles that could annoy not only the wearer but possibly her escort. But on the whole, the shape or silhouette of the looks for day and evening stayed within the realm of what flatters and delights the Herrera client. If Ms. Herrera took risks, it was with color — and even then, only the risk of having everyone in a room turn to see that stunning, bright dress.
Peter Som used gorgeous blues that looks as refreshing as a swimming pool on a hot summer day. One belted azure dress was made in a classic shape: full skirt, tight waist, and wide neckline. Shorter hemlines were very much in evidence: wrapped miniskirts and luxurious T-shirts in light blues and abstract prints hit a balance between sex appeal and propriety. A spectrum of orange was used here, too: A beaded dress was made in a red-orange fabric, while a softer shade was used in stripes for a full-skirted dress with loose, rolled-up sleeves. A pale rose and a brighter berry color were used for looks that ranged from sheer vests to short-sleeved sweaters.
Within the same collection, Mr. Som showed dresses and skirts in muted neutrals that were decorated with a dark graphic print. A prim white shirt and a strapless cocktail dress in gray offered brought the volumn down, but not the style.
A sweet, pretty mood reigned at Twinkle, where designer Wenlan Chia is known for her prints, knits, and jewelry. There were colorful abstract prints — named “Dreamer’s Journal” and “Secret Garden” — used on halter dresses and blouses. But even more frequent was a black-and-white print used for garments, as well as fabric-covered jewelry; the pattern had a white background and black specks in differing sizes that made this viewer think of chocolate-chip ice cream.
Though there were a number of dresses that kept things flattering and safe, Ms. Chia played with proportions, too. Some pants had dropped crotches and low waists, others had high waists and pleats. And with the more adventurous shapes, Ms. Chia returned to the simple shades of black, gray, and white.