Before its demise in the early 1990s, the brand Ports International was one of Canada’s signature fashion houses, synonymous with a preppy image and moderate prices. After recessionary troubles, Ports rebranded as the luxury label Ports 1961, hiring Dean and Dan Caten — now of DSquared — and running glamorous ad campaigns with Kate Moss. The current creative director, Tia Cibani, created a spring collection inspired by “La Portena,” a romanticized time in 1940s Argentina when, according to the program notes, “luxury train travel transformed the architectural landscape of South America.”

The aesthetic is modern, chic, and wonderfully evocative of the smart, jet-set glamour that Ms. Cibani has built the brand around. It’s ladylike but emphatically not in a prim manner. This is commanding in a red-lipstick kind of way, even if there is flow and a measure of flounce and embellishment. If one of these women were to show up in a trench, who knows if she would be wearing anything beneath it?

Among the best of the looks was a tulle and lace sundress, which was lovely enough on its own but positively stunning with a woven washed leather cape. One of the smartest, sharpest looks was one of the very few all black ensembles: a tulle and lace bandeau, paired with a pleat-front trouser and topped with a fabulous mini fedora.

Ms. Cibani mostly stuck to a neutral color palette, accented with magenta and gold. The results were stunning when she left neutrals behind, especially in a smoldering flounced halter dress in red; and a silk and cotton tulle bandeau in gold and floor-length satin tiered skirt in magenta.

Peter Som, on the other hand, looked to a different era entirely: the last few seasons, when the pretty version of ladylike ruled the runways. This makes a certain amount of sense for this particular designer, a favorite with the socialite set. So while the clothes weren’t terribly cutting edge or interesting, these were pieces that his fans will buy and wear, for more than one season if they are so inclined.

The best pieces were little T-shirt dresses; though they sound girlish, Mr. Som pumped up their sophistication. A sporty, greystriped sweater dress was given an unexpected twist with a couple of little knots of fabric. Another looker was a T-shirt dress in saffron taffeta. For the charity circuit, his full-length washed organdy gowns go down easy.

What was strange at the show was the rock and roll blaring throughout. It was as if the designer suddenly realized that he needed to inject a measure of toughness into the clothes to comply with current taste, and the presentation music was the quickest fix. It might have worked in the tents, but come spring, shoppers will know exactly what they are seeing.