Welcome to the Runway
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

On paper, Mercedes Benz Fashion Week officially begins today. But in practice, the rapid-fire series of parties and shows has been going on for days. Every night is a chance for a “kick-off” event and a chance to get in early — making it all feel that what matters isn’t just the official Fashion Week (already a full eight days long): It’s the week before that counts.
On Wednesday night, Vogue drew 750 people to its First Look party, which included a runway show of spring looks and a viewing of Robert Wilson’s Voom Portraits. “Before fashion week, there seems to be energy in the air. Everyone’s not yet exhausted from going to 50 appointments,” the publishing director of Vogue, Tom Florio, said.
Fresh off the heels of being named Condé Nast’s publisher of the year, Mr. Florio and his team crafted an event that loosened up industry types with cocktails — and did some business. The runway show included six looks each from several advertisers, including Bally, Ports 1961, and Giuseppe Zanotti.
Whatever the reason for the party, guests such as Abby Vergote of Iconix, which owns Badgley Mischka, were happy to be out before the work begins. “Toward the end of fashion week, everyone is so over it. The week before, that’s when everyone’s in the mood to party,” she said.
For two members of the design collective Form, the work was already in full swing. “This is a break for us,” the designer Mignonne Gaviean said. “We’ve just been to the pattern maker, and now we’re going back to the studio.”
The week also offers designers time in the spotlight before the crowd rushes in. During the week, the back-to-back shows force the press, buyers, and stylists to pick the shows they have to see rather than what they’d like to see. “It doesn’t leave a lot of room for the artist and the emerging,” the founder of the public relations firm People’s Revolution, Kelly Cutrone, said.
Yesterday Ms. Cutrone organized two shows — for Shelley Steffee and Linda Loudermilk — after learning from experience in pervious years. In the past, she had scheduled shows on the last Friday of fashion week, by which time the crowd thins out. “On Friday, it used to be Ralph and Donna and then everybody split,” she said. “We are not in the business of exercises in futility.”
A partner at People’s Revolution, Emily Bungert, said the early-bird advantage is simple: “People aren’t exhausted.”
At the Shelley Steffee presentation, a collegial, calm vibe reigned as editors inspected a sculptural collection that combines futurism with elegance. The best of the bunch included a twill pullover with diagonal bursts of quilting at the shoulders and a black jumpsuit (of all things) that shapes the body beautifully for evening. Paired with several looks were creative leggings that combined silver and white or black with small, flat metallic beads or strips of white fuzz.
At Linda Loudermilk, the artistry was mixed with attention to sustainability and environmentalism. Several designs included cubes or photographic prints inspired by the shapes of glaciers. A cream dress made of bamboo wool had fabric cubes hanging from the hem. A series of suits and dresses featured the exaggerated, geometric sleeves.
Last night was occupied by the official Mercedes Benz kick off party at The Box and the Miss Sixty runway show at 7 World Trade Center. Yesterday afternoon, Elie Tahari showed off his new collection. An Edie Sedgwick-inspired look reigned with fluid shifts and tent dresses in jewel tones, embellished black, and heavy beaded silver and gold. Tahari’s two-year old accessories line included wedge heels of perforated leather and ultraflat heeled boots.
For those prepared to shop, there were plenty of opportunities. On Tuesday night, Anait Bian presented her collection of romantic looks at a salon party in the Plaza Athénée. Lydia Hearst, a fan of the designer, promptly placed an order for the bubble-hem dress with sparkly pantaloons. Meanwhile, Lisa Perry introduced her line of colorful shift dresses in her SoHo space — which is just across the street from the Té Casan shoe boutique, which held a shopping party the following night.
All that — and still much more to come.