When Clothes Make the Dance

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A good collaboration is hard to find, but the choreographer of the Danish Dance Theater, Tim Rushton, found it with costume designer Charlotte Østergaard. A fashion designer with her own shop in Copenhagen, Ms. Østergaard is part of the surge of Danish design talent — and an example of how fashion crosses over into the arts.

During a program of its work at the Joyce SoHo, the Danish Dance Theater — which was in residence at the Joyce during the month of October — wore Ms. Østergaard’s designs.

Pleated knit fabrics worked with the women’s bodies. Asymmetrical waistlines folded over on the men’s pants. And a whole series of printed fabrics was made entirely by hand.

“She’s trying to flatter the individual dancers,” Mr. Rushton said. “It’s very important to me to work with someone who has a sense of the body.”

Ms. Østergaard and Mr. Rushton start working together early in the creative process to see who will be dancing and how to integrate her design with his movement and the dancers’ bodies. “Modern dancers all have very different bodies, as opposed to classical ballet,” Mr. Rushton said. “The hips are important in modern dance, circular motion.”

For “Bach Suites,” Ms. Østergaard used an extremely light, gauzy material with pleats to exaggerate the line of the dancers’ legs. “The leg seems hidden, but the minute the dancers start to move, the leg becomes very clear,” the choreographer said.

And wherever Mr. Rushton’s dances go, so goes Ms. Østergaard. “We just sold a piece to the Royal Swedish Ballet, and she’s going there to give a workshop on how to make the print fabric,” he said.


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