White Heat
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

A white dress is a natural choice for summer holidays. It’s a color you probably rarely wear for work – the thought of all that dirt, dust, and the dry-cleaning bills – but it really comes into its own when you’re off-duty, relaxing on a tropical island, or enjoying a heat wave weekend.
White sets off healthy, golden tans to perfection, and it is the perfect mix of innocence and sensuality. And, when worn straight from the wash, without ironing, it offers a more romantic approach to the gypsy vibe currently running through fashion.
There is a nostalgic, retro feel to many of this summer’s white dresses, and the equally pretty blouses and skirts on offer.
At Chloe, Phoebe Philo’s little white slip, which has a hint of lace, is as soft as a chemise. SportMax’s version is sheer and lavished with lace in the manner of a rather naughty Victorian blouse.
Dries Van Noten, meanwhile, has a full sleeved white blouse and ultra-full dirndl skirt. Alice Temperley used Moroccan embroidery to give the white dress a North African feel – an interpretation that was also explored by the Bamford label in a hand-beaded, full-length kaftan.
Other designers, such as Rebecca Taylor, Anna Sui, and Donna Karan borrow from the boudoir, using Victorian camisoles and petticoats as inspiration.
With their deceptive simplicity and concentration of lace, cutwork and broderie Anglaise detailing, many of this summer’s little white dresses could be modern interpretations of the “White Wardrobe” designed by Norman Hartnell for the Queen Mother, nearly 70 years ago.
Made for King George VI’s state visit to France in July, 1938, the wardrobe was one of the most sensitive and successful commissions that Hartnell undertook.
It combined the need for fabulous design – which the occasion required – with propriety for the mourning of the Queen’s mother, the Countess of Strathmore.
The designs, which were soft, feminine, and elegant, were handcrafted from beautiful silk and tulle, embellished with lace and broderie Anglaise – and they caused a sensation when the Queen arrived in Paris.
Although the clothes were considered the height of chic at the time, they were already vintage, because Hartnell’s main inspiration for the collection, which included a crinoline revival, came from the family portraits in the Royal Collection, and, in particular, those of Queen Victoria and her family by Winterhalter.
With Victoriana set to continue as a key theme for this winter, this is a good time to buy into a little history. And, when the summer is over, wear your white lacy Victorian blouse with jeans, or layer your little, white petticoat dress over a black turtleneck and tights.
The “White Wardrobe,” designed for the Queen Mother by Norman Hartnell, is the centerpiece of a special exhibition in the State Rooms at this year’s summer opening of Buckingham Palace, from July 30 to September 27. For more information, visit www.royalcollection.org.uk.