Donna Karan has long championed a powerful sort of womanliness. And her spring 2008 collection is a vibrant affirmation of that vision. Seductive, modern, and chic, this collection isn’t shy about saying “Come and get it” — whether the “it” is love, sex, or martinis.

The consistent design elements are those that women with curves have always been grateful for: cinched waists, full skirts, and body-hugging, shoulderexposing halter tops. While this silhouette could look like an homage to the New Look, it was a distinctly contemporary — and distinctly Donna Karan — in the details. Raffia belts accented the waists. Some of the full skirts came with exaggerated pockets. The tops ranged from smooth jersey bodysuits to a white cotton shirt with sculptural sleeves and a deep V-neck.

The awareness of sculptural shapes carried over to the suits and evening gowns. A suit of white cotton stretch canvas looked like just the thing to please the traditional Donna-aficionado. Long gowns emphasized the upper body with halter tops in contrasting colors. The color palette was dominated by solid neutrals — tan, caramel, white, and brown — and punctuated by an occasional deep red and yellow.

New York’s Fashion Week has a tendency to feel like a constant parade of clothing for pretty young things, with the occasional sophisticated lady addressed in passing. While this collection has plenty for that market, it also stands out for its attention to ageless style and grace.

At Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa kept things plain and simple — almost excessively so. Clean lines and a neutral color scheme defined this unembellished, architectural collection. Pants were shown high on the waist and long in the leg. Dresses had careful, contoured seaming or encircled the body loosely from a strapless neckline straight down to the floor. Fabrics were ultralight and wispy, so much so that if you gained 1 pound, you might be in trouble. A graphic print on a gray jacket added a hint of whimsy to an otherwise severe mood.