Among some of the native fishermen along the Upper Androscoggin River in western Maine, the well-to-do groups of young bankers and lawyers who come to the mountains there to decompress in the great outdoors are known as the “cigar and brandy crowd.”

Until recently, these city slickers skied western Maine’s Sunday River resort and occasionally hit the links on the shoulder seasons. But now, the cigar-and-brandy set comes to fish the pristine waters of the “Upper Andro,” as locals refer to it.

The charming town of Bethel, just minutes from Sunday River, used to gear itself to the winter tourist season. These days, it’s fast becoming known across most of the Northeast as the seat of one of the great fishing kingdoms of the world.

A resort town that attempts to transform itself into a year-round destination from a two-season draw is not a new phenomenon. But in the case of Bethel, it has had more to do with how well the town responds to tourists transforming the place for them.

Here’s what the natives have always known: As good as the skiing is in the Mahoosuc Range (a rugged area in the northernmost section the of Appalachian Trail), western Maine’s best natural feature is the fishing. This is no small feat if you’ve ever skied the eight glorious peaks of Sunday River.

The foothills of western Maine could very well be the most beautiful area of northern New England. Now that the last of the large paper mills has closed, the fish population is returning to late 19th-century levels. And the state is helping.

A guide with the Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife, Bill Pierce, works to ensure that tens of thousands of brook, brown, and rainbow trout are raised in tanks and released along certain parts of the Upper Andro each spring.

In early June, Mr. Pierce released 2,000 browns and 2,000 rainbows to the stretch of river between the towns of Gilead and West Bethel. He had also released brook trout into surrounding tributaries. What has long been a staple of “river drifters” (those who raft riverside for sport) and canoers is now the domain of the cerebral fly fisherman.

It might be hard for a visitor to imagine that anything — particularly trout — needs to be added to a place such as Bethel and its environs. But whatever the rationale, it means that the views along this magnificent river are supplanted by the incredible fishing.

Local fishermen are not averse to old-fashioned, spin reel-andcast fishing. The fun in fishing this way, of course, is trying out lures — shiny spinners, tube jigs, “bleeding white” jigs — to determine the most attractive to the trout and smallmouth bass of the river.

The true test of fishing the Upper Andro, however, is to use a fly. Those who work at Sun Valley Sports in Bethel, the local Orvis dealer, are dyed-in-the-wool fishermen, but they also cater to families who want to hike or ride Arctic Cat ATVs through the Sunday River area. A trip up past the Jordan Grand Summit resort hotel makes for some breathtaking views.

But just a day or two into your visit, thoughts will probably return to fishing. Mr. Pierce demonstrated how important — and fun — fly-fishing can be, especially as the dinner hour sets in for the area’s trout population. At about 5 p.m. one day, as a calm settled over the river, he noticed an appealing stretch of film across the surface. There, he spotted a 20-inch brown trout looking for its evening meal. Trout love the little insects that fly and settle in this natural river foam. Choosing the correct fly is important, but so is hitting the right area of the trout’s feeding zone.

“We’re not going to get too many shots at this boy,” Mr. Pierce said, as he turned over the helm of the Hog Island fishing boat in order to fetch his rod. “It’s more like hunting now than fishing.”

That brownie got away, deftly outmaneuvering Mr. Pierce’s graceful casts.

For those who would rather golf than fish, the Bethel Inn Resort, in the heart of the town, boasts a course designed in 1915. Sunday River unveiled its Robert Trent Jones course in the summer of 2005. These two courses complement each other because of their elevations and design. Visitors should make time for both.

The Bethel Inn is a center for fine dining and pub fare can be had downstairs at its Millbrook Tavern. The historic inn is a best bet if you want to have an elegant home base from which to explore the entire area.

There are several dining options during a visit to Bethel. In town, the 22 Broad Street restaurant, which boasts a martini bar, is located in the Gideon Hastings House, directly across street from the Bethel Inn. Just a short stroll away is the quaint Victoria Inn & Restaurant, where an impressive tea collection is on offer.

The River Restaurant in West Paris is a 15-minute drive out of town. It’s a good bet for casual dining after a long day on the Upper Andro River. And in western Maine, the longer your day on the river, the better life seems to get.

jakasie@nysun.com