Dining Well at Disney

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The New York Sun

Every parent, no matter how cultured or sophisticated, will one day succumb to a child’s pleas to visit Walt Disney World Resort. And when that day comes, the parent in question will be delighted to know that the dining options are better and broader than ever before.

Much of the food at the restaurants rivals Manhattan bistro fare and the healthy fast-food choices throughout the parks are worthy of any Whole Foods.

A stay at Disney’s luxury hotels, such as the Grand Floridian Resort & Spa or the Beach Club Resort, promises the kind of dining one might not have thought possible in Central Florida. But the resort’s culinary jewel is Victoria & Albert’s at the Grand Floridian, a Victorian-themed, candlelit spot where guests can relish hors d’oeuvres such as pan-roasted foie gras with Fuji apple bread pudding and mostarda di cremona, followed by an entrée of Marcho Farms veal tenderloin with braised veal cheeks and Burgundy poached sweetbreads (paired with a glass of Prior d’Scala Dei, Priorat 2003).

Victoria & Albert’s is Central Florida’s only AAA Five-Diamond restaurant, and chef Scott Hunnel customizes his daily menu for parties of between two and six. For the serious gourmand, there is a private chef’s table at the back of the kitchen and a selection of 4,200 bottles of wine in the “cellar.” Perhaps the only drawback — and it may not actually be one — is that children under 10 are not allowed. Guests should book well in advance, and expect to spend about $175 a person; jacket and tie are required. Frequently, harp music provides aural accompaniment, which is a rather civil way to unwind after thundering across Florida on a roller coaster.

For those who haven’t visited in recent years, memories of Disney World often bring up recollections of white-gloved Mickey doling out hugs with clumsy, oversize arms, but the mouse is not as ubiquitous as he once was. Instead, Disney executives have become more focused on the pirate and princess market: There is a Disney princess for nearly every day of the week, each with her own legend. Such is the fanaticism with which these royalty are greeted that visitors are advised on the Disney Web site to make lunch reservations at Cinderella’s Royal Table 180 days in advance.

The eatery is located in the authentic Cinderella’s Castle at Magic Kingdom and, despite the cost (about $36-$59.99 a person) and booking time, the experience is a must. After presenting one’s party to the gracious maître d’ at the wooden doors, guests are ushered into the castle, where Cinderella can be found waiting at the foot of the stairs. There, a Disney photographer will snap a large photo of your little princess with Cinderella, as well as a family portrait (both photographs are included in the price of lunch and are delivered to the table in souvenir frames before the end of the meal). If lunch in the Gothic-style dining room with its hanging banners, stained-glass windows, and aptly dressed servers is not as sophisticated as at the park’s other top dining rooms, it’s because the focus is on meeting Disney’s cast of characters — expect table visits from others in Disney’s palace of princesses, including Aurora, Snow White, Belle, and Jasmine. For girls of a certain age, this may very well be the highlight of a Disney vacation — don’t be surprised if, after meeting Cinderella, all ambition ceases.

Another of Disney’s fine dining rooms is the AAA Four-Diamond restaurant, Jiko-The Cooking Place, at Disney’s Animal Kingdom Lodge. This African-inspired bistro features dishes such as seared scallops with spicy tomato-onion “chaka-laka,” berbere-braised lamb shank, and maize and sweet potato tamales. The wines, exclusively from Africa, make up the largest collection of its kind in any restaurant in America, according to Disney. For an after-dinner promenade, patrons can stroll outdoors along the savannah, where real wildebeests, zebras, giraffes, and other African creatures wander through the dusk, giving guests of the Animal Kingdom Lodge a view that one would perhaps be more likely to see in Kenya.

At the parks, it’s not just the adult menus that have been repurposed: Well-balanced meals for youngsters have been designed to encourage better eating habits, with the inclusion of nutritious side dishes and beverages. Among the beverage choices are low-fat milk, 100% fruit juice, and that refreshing staple, water; side dishes include unsweetened applesauce, baby carrots, and fresh fruit. While parents can still purchase the more indulgent items on the theme park tray, healthier options are displayed more prominently on the standard children’s menus.

After feasting on the five-star fare, parents can sign on for Disney’s VIP Tour Service. The service covers access to all four theme parks with minimum fuss: It includes a tour guide who will arrange priority seating for all Walt Disney World restaurants, special viewing areas at parades and live stage shows, and other amenities. The guides will even take on personal shopping if requested. (All VIP tours are a minimum of six hours; $125 an hour for up to 10 guests.)

For more information or to plan a trip, go to disneyworld.disney.go.com.


The New York Sun

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