Expanding & Evolving

MADRID — Before its recent renovation , the Museo Nacional del Prado had an embarrassment of riches. Known for its outstanding collection of works from the 11th through the 19th centuries, the museum could display only 50% of its collection at one time. But all that has changed.In a $206 million expansion, led by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Rafael Moneo, the museum has nearly doubled its exhibition space with an elegant cube-shaped building. A subterranean passageway connects the extension to the original Neo-Classical building, constructed by Juan de Villanueva in the 18th century. Inside the addition, Mr. Moneo reconstructed and restored the cloister of a 16th-century church, which, in its current form, will be principally devoted to sculpture exhibitions. The other galleries are filled with paintings on rotating display.On view in the new space is “The 19th Century in the Prado,” which includes more than 100 works — many of which have never been accessible to the public before. Among the highlights of the show are masterpieces by Goya, Joaquin Sorolla, Vicente Lopez, and Jose and Federico Madrazo. In a particularly humble note about the exhibit, the museum’s officials write: “The Museum has chosen this as its inaugural exhibition for the new wing in order to compensate for the neglect that these artists have suffered for many years, given that there has been so little space to display their works.”The admission reflects a level of self-awareness and candor that the director of the Prado, Miguel Zugaza, may be responsible for. “We are the last great European museum to modernize,” he told The New York Sun. “This means that no longer will we be viewed as simply a grand, old repository of art but instead as a magnificent collection available to all.”Tall, dark, and cosmopolitan, Mr. Zugaza looks to the position born, but his appointment in 2002 was not without controversy. This world-famed museum was traditionally run by artists, aristocrats, and academics. But the necessity of dealing with contemporary realities led its board to bring in a professional museum manager, as other national European galleries have.The Basque native, who previously held positions at Madrid’s Reina Sofia contemporary art center and Bilbao’s Museum of Fine Arts, became the museum’s youngest and highest compensated director. And it appears to have paid off: Attendance increased roughly 30% to 2.3 million visitors from 2 million annually since his arrival.“You can now see both the permanent collection — we have the world’s richest store of pre-20th century masters, including Velasquez, Rubens, El Greco, and Goya — and the temporary exhibitions in ideal, uncrowded circumstances,” he said. “In the future, we won’t stop at Goya. We’ll show more Picasso and other great modern artists. We’ve learned how to communicate with and serve the public better.”Mr. Moneo’s addition will certainly help. The new facility houses restoration studios, preservation laboratories, a sleek cafeteria and bookshop, and a 400-seat auditorium for cultural programs. There is also a new prints and drawings area, where curators can examine 10,000 Goya prints previously unstudied. Mr. Moneo employed natural materials that blend harmoniously with those in the original building and façade, including oak, cedar, granite, bronze, Colmar stone, and glass. He also commissioned the Spanish artist Cristina Iglesias to create a monumental patinated-bronze entrance.With its larger space and a new sense of professionalism, the Prado has joined the contemporary era of art presentation.For more information, go to museodelprado.mcu.es.Nearby AttractionsThyssen-Bornemisza Museo de Arte: In an 18th-century palace, the museum features art from the 12th century to Warhol. Upcoming exhibitions: “Modigliani and His Time,” through May 18; “Miro: The Earth,” June 17–September 14. Paseo del Prado 8, museothyssen.org.Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia: The most comprehensive, modern, and widely visited museum devoted to contemporary art in the world. Centerpiece of the museum is the world-famous “Guernica” by Picasso. Santa Isabel 52, museoreinasofia.mcu.es.Retiro Park: Nothing beats Sunday afternoon in Retiro Park. Situated behind the Prado Museum, this immense garden is the most popular and widely visited park in Madrid. It was originally built for the Spanish king Philip IV and was opened to the general public in the 1800s. As a result of its regal patronage, it has many beautiful buildings. One of the most beautiful is the Crystal Palace, which is made entirely of glass; the others often put on exhibitions. The park also boasts a number of terrazas (open-air bars) where you can sip a beer or enjoy an horchata (made from tiger nuts or almonds).Calle Cava Baja: The most popular and traditional tapas bars line this curving street just south of Plaza Mayor (a 15-minute walk from the Prado). For a slice of tortilla española (potato omelet), visit Casa Lucas, Calle Cava Baja 30; 34-91-365-08-04. For pintxos, the Basque version of tapas, try Txakoli, Calle Cava Baja 26; 34-91-366-48-77.

Expanding & Evolving

Expanding & Evolving

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