Is any trip to Hawaii complete without a cool, refreshing swim beneath a picturesque waterfall? That’s what I asked myself as I gazed at the 150-foot Hanakapi`ai Falls on Kauai’s Na Pali coast. After hiking two miles on a steep dipping and rising path, and clambering another two miles through a dense valley with precarious stream crossings, I couldn’t pass up the chance to fulfill this tropical fantasy. I picked my way along the slippery rocks before giving up and diving under. The water was cold. Very cold. Swimming toward the waterfalls, I discovered it was also getting very windy. And there was the threat of falling rocks. And strange bacteria. Close to hyperventilating, I swam to the falls, ducked under, and came up on the other side gasping. “There, I did it!” I thought as I dove back under and swam toward the shore. And as I got out of the water and dried off, I knew I would do it again if given the chance.

The experience is just one of the memorable opportunities on Kauai, where my husband and I had decided to spend our two-week honeymoon – along with countless other couples with that telltale aura of relief: no more decisions about seating charts, roses versus calla lilies, or fondant versus buttercream frosting. At the end of our 10-hour trip from New York, we forgot our back cramps and dry skin as we gaped out the airplane window at Kauai’s lush green mountains.

Kauai encompasses about 550 square miles, nearly three-quarters of which are inaccessible by foot due to mountains, valleys, canyons, and rainforests. It has the distinction of having the wettest spot on earth – the 5,075-foot summit of Mt. Waialeale – as well as the Waimea Canyon, which Mark Twain dubbed the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” Kauai is the oldest and northernmost of the Hawaiian Islands, and it has mild weather year-round. It may not be the place to visit if you’re looking for hot nightlife or consistent world-class dining, but if you want to take advantage of Hawaii’s stunning scenery, Kauai is an ideal destination. And despite having its own language, Hawaii is still part of America, meaning your cell phones work and you can do last minute vacation shopping at Wal-Mart. It’s also possible to travel affordably in Kauai; groceries, meals, and activities can get expensive, but a little research can yield some lovely accommodations for not much money. If your budget is more elastic, the Princeville Resort (800-826-4400,www.princeville.com)on the north shore and the Hyatt Regency Kauai Resort (808-742-1234, www.kauai.hyatt.com) on the south shore offer luxury in a gorgeous setting.

We spent our first night at the Radisson in Lihue (800-333-3333, www.radissonkauai.com), which is only about 10 minutes away from the airport. The hotel is perfectly nice, with a spacious, elegant lobby and generic hotel rooms, some of which face a beautiful beach that is too rough and rocky for swimming. After checking out our room, we headed directly to the torch-lighting ceremony bearing the promise of free happy hour mai tais at the pool. Unfortunately, in this case, we got what we paid for. The drinks were watery in plastic cups, the ceremony a bit corny, and we felt like idiots in our jeans and T-shirts, since our luggage didn’t arrive until later that night. Still, we were in Kauai, and we weren’t complaining.

Early on in our trip we decided to defy the 5-hour time difference. Embracing our inner senior citizens, we turned in around 9 p.m. each night and got up with the sun every morning. This was a good move, since the island is overrun with roosters whose internal clocks have gone berserk, and it was nice to hit some of the beaches before many people got there. In Kauai, our main goals were to swim, snorkel, boogie board, and cover some of the island’s hiking paths. For more ambitious travelers, there is also mountain biking, diving, wind or kite surfing and, of course, surfing.

The second morning of our honeymoon, we lowered the top of our convertible and set off for our condo on the island’s south shore, in the Poipu Beach area. The south side of the island is known for being generally flatter and sunnier than the north shore, although any rain showers on Kauai tend to last about 10 minutes before the dark clouds hustle off over the ocean. Arriving at the Turtle Cove Suites (866-294-2733, www.turtlecovesuites.com), we discovered a lovely condo with Hawaiian art, a Jacuzzi tub, marble shower, and small kitchenette. There are four suites in the converted house, all with lanais that look out over a small communal pool, hot tub, and bubbling creek that feeds into the ocean. For the price ($165 a night), it’s a good deal, and we valued the privacy and charm of the Mana Suite. It’s also conveniently located near the Beach House (808-742-1424, www.the-beach-house.com), a Pacific Rim restaurant that offers an excellent view of the sunset, romantic atmosphere, and good seafood. You can safely skip the Lava Flows, a combination of a pina colada and strawberry daiquiri that overpowered even my voracious sweet tooth.

On our first day in Poipu, we set off to explore the beaches. Kauai has the highest proportion of golden sand beaches in Hawaii, and these range from calm and snorkel-friendly to the rough, high-wave beaches favored by some of the world’s best surfers. Our favorite swimming beach on the south shore was Poipu Beach near the Sheraton, with manageable waves, few rocks, and fine, white sand. This beach is an ideal place to take surfing lessons if you’ve always dreamed of catching a wave but aren’t prepared to take a thrashing. Nearby is a good snorkeling beach, Poipu Beach Park, and Brenneckes Beach, a perfect spot to try boogie boarding. We headed to Snorkel Bob’s (808-737-2421, www.snorkelbob.com) and rented the boards ($7 a day, $26 a week) and the snorkel gear ($2.50-$11 a day, $9-$44 a week).

There isn’t a lot of hiking on the south side of the island, although for a short afternoon walk, the cliffs of Maha`ulepu are breathtaking, and it’s a relatively level hike along the shoreline. From the south shore, a 20-minute drive will get you to the Waimea Canyon, which offers spectacular vistas from the road and lots of hiking trails. On the way, stop at the Camp House Grill (808-332-9755) in Kalaheo for a hearty breakfast, or at Brick Oven Pizza (808-332-8561) for dinner (it’s not New York pizza, but it’s good). You can work your way down the canyon on the 5-mile Kukui Trail, although we opted for the Pihea Trail near the top of the 3,600-foot canyon, overlooking the Na Pali coast. Our hike was slowed by huge muddy puddles and frequent rain showers (we were essentially up in the clouds), but if the conditions are right, it’s a recommended trail.

Manu Mele, or Birdsong Cottage (808-828-1458, www.kauaibirdsongcottage.com), was our favorite place to stay, and we spent a week there for about $880 after discovering it online at Vacation Rentals by Owner (www.vcrbo.com). The cottage is surrounded by banana, mango, and papaya trees; a citrus orchard; and an expanse of vibrant green grass that gives way to a view of the ocean about a mile away. The cottage has a full kitchen, outdoor shower and tub, washing machine, with a trellis-covered hammock and gas grill out back. Inside, the decor might be described as Hawaiian shabby chic, with potted orchids, Balinese antiques, a four-poster bed with mosquito netting, TV and VCR (no reception), and stereo system with CDs ranging from Al Green to IZ Kamakawiwo`ole.

We spent much of our time on the north shore in Hanalei, a historic roadside town frequented by hippies, tourists, and sporty locals. Postcards Cafe (808-826-1191) specializes in fresh, well-prepared seafood in a charming plantation cottage. If you want something less heart friendly, Bubba Burgers (www.bubbaburger.com) across Kuhio Highway serves regular burgers and hot dogs, as well as teriyaki burgers and great onion rings. I would recommend catching the sunset and a drink at the Princeville Resort (808-826-9644, www.princeville.com), which has its own beach overlooking Bali Hai, the mountain made famous in “South Pacific.” Tunnels Beach on the north shore has the best snorkeling on the island, and Ke`e Beach (the end of the road on the north shore) is a beautiful spot for swimming, with stunning views of the lush Na Pali cliffs.

If you don’t want to tackle the Kalalau Trail, the only way to see the Na Pali coast is from the sea or the air. We opted for a helicopter ride, and about 30 seconds into our flight I realized I was holding my breath. The views were incredible. A power catamaran trip along the coast, with stops for snorkeling or diving, also comes highly recommended. And for even more adventurous (and strong) souls, there are 16-mile guided ocean kayaking trips along the unpredictable Na Pali Coast. Contemplating our blisterfree hands, we decided to save that for our five-year anniversary.