In Alaska, a Final Frontier For Winter
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

Contrary to the widely held belief among the “Lower 48,” Alaska does not shut down — and its people do not all retreat to their cabins — during the sunless winter months. In fact, Alaskans would generally agree they are livelier, and their state more enchanting, when mounds of white snow blanket the land around them. As rivers and creeks, ponds and lakes, which make up so much of Alaska, freeze, more of the backcountry becomes accessible to travel for the locals.
Of the nearly two million tourists who travel to Alaska every year, most prefer to visit during the summer months, when they can take in resplendent views of Mount McKinley — the continent’s tallest peak — or look for black bears dipping their heads into streams in search of salmon. But in the colder months, when the tourists have departed, Alaskans are delighted as much of the hinterland opens up around them. More than ever, sports enthusiasts from around the world are arriving during off-seasons, braving belowzero temperatures for a chance to explore what is known as “America’s Last Frontier.” No matter which season they choose, visitors quickly learn that playing in the great outdoors is the Alaskan way of life.
In Valdez, where snow falls at an average of 325 inches each year, the city’s endless peaks, valleys, and glaciers make it one of the best places to explore the spectacular wilderness by skiing or snow machining. Alaska Snow Safaris (888-414-7669; snowmobilealaska.com) offers tours of the area and leads groups over glaciers, across untracked snow and through open valleys teeming with wildlife. Another sport gaining popularity is heli-skiing. From February to April when snow and flying conditions are optimal, helicopters take riders up the Chugach Mountains’ almost vertical slopes. Valdez, perhaps the snowiest place in Alaska, is also considered one of the ice climbing capitals of the world. Ice climbers can take advantage of frozen waterfalls (for tour operators, go to valdezalaska.org).
While wilderness surrounds Anchorage, Alaska’s largest city, skiers who prefer luxury resorts can visit the Alyeska Resort (800-880-3880; alyeskaresort.com) by driving to the quaint ski town of Girdwood, only 30 minutes south of Anchorage. With more than 1,000 acres of terrain, the resort offers skiing and snowboarding for all levels throughout the winter months. Visitors who wish to take a day off from skiing to try something different may take an interest in “mushing,” traveling over the snow by a sled led by a team of dogs. About 30 minutes north of Anchorage, Birch Trails in Chugiak, Alaska (907-688-5713; home.gci.net/~birchtrails), offers daylong learn-to-mush programs. For lengthier expeditions, visitors may look up Chugach Express Dogsled Tours in Girdwood (907-346-1270; alaska4seasons.com).
In Alaska’s capital city, Juneau, travelers will find the country’s most geographically secluded capital — accessible by air and sea only. It is, nonetheless, the state’s most beautiful hillside city; its pristine waterfront has earned it the endearing moniker “little San Francisco.” For years, locals have favored skiing in Juneau because of the affordable lift ticket prices, inexpensive accommodations, and an absence of traffic and long lines for ski lifts. Just seven miles from the downtown area, Eaglecrest (907-790-2000 juneau.org/eaglecrest) offers 640 acres of groomed trails for all levels. Winter enthusiasts can enjoy snowboarding, and downhill, cross-country, and heliskiing. Juneau flight-seeing excursions feature spectacular scenery.
During spring and summer months, Juneau is also known for its spectacular views and a plethora of exceptional hiking trails that surround the city. The Mt. Roberts Tramway (888-461-8726; goldbelttours.com) carries visitors 1,800 feet upward where a restaurant, trails to the summit, and day hikes, among other activities are available.
But the city’s most popular attraction is Mendenhall Glacier (Visitor Center, 907-789-0097), an impressive 1-1/2 mile-wide ice floe accessible by road. The sprawling Tongass National Park, which surrounds Mendenhall, is — at 16.9 million acres — the largest in America. Visitors can participate in a variety of outdoor activities, including camping, hiking through lush forest, kayaking, whale watching, and cave exploration.
Spring or summer guests of the Copper River Princess Wilderness Lodge (800-426-0500; princesslodges.com) are rewarded with the colorful mountain views and breathtaking scenery of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve. Situated on 200 acres at the junction of the Klutina and Copper Rivers, the lodge is a wilderness retreat that offers an array of excursions and outdoor activities. Guides, who are eager to accompany visitors on sightseeing adventures, meet guests of the lodge at the door. Whether taking riverrafting trips on the Gulkana River, flight-seeing tours over Mt. Wrangell, or visiting the abandoned Kennicott copper mines, guests will get a taste of Alaska’s enormity.