The casual observer sees lines — but the trained eye sees a story. That is the beauty of Scottish tartan, the brightly checked pattern popularly known as plaid. For centuries, the Scottish have used varying combinations of the interlocking stripes, woven in vibrant colors and thread count, to encode key details about their family clan, birth place, and trade.

It is this rich tradition that continues to attract modern designers to the fabric. From designer Ralph Lauren, whose line features its own signature tartan, to Vivienne Westwood — high-end labels have enjoyed an enduring and profitable love affair with tartan. In recent years, the popularity of tartan has exploded beyond prestige brands to mass retailers. And for just a glimpse of the current tartan frenzy among retailers this season, consider the tartan pants and blouses at H&M, large-buttoned blazers at Zara, and Victoria’s Secret, where intimate clothing such as bras and lacy underwear have been splashed with the boxy print.

But a considerable distance from American stores hyping the fabric is a cluster of mill towns known for creating it. Selkirk, Peebles, Innerleithen, Galashiels, Melrose, Langholm, Jedburgh, and Hawick comprise the Scottish Borders region, where the textile mills that once populated them — between the 1700s and the 1960s — were the sites of a booming, textile manufacturing industry. Tartans of every variation were sewn in local factories. Beyond tartan, makers of cashmere and other fine fabric also operated in the region, capitalizing on the superior water, wool, and skilled labor.

Gradually, though, despite the exceptional quality with which they produced the cloth, mill town manufacturers could not compete with cheaper, faster production in Asia. By the late 1980s, the gradual decline in demand had led to the departure en masse of many apparel companies. Today, a handful of manufacturers remain in the region, among them Locharron, a family-owned maker of high-end tartan named for the small village of the same name in Scotland’s Western Highlands; the prestigious Ballantyne Cashmere in Innerleithen, and Pringle of Scotland in Hawick.

Yet even as the textile industry has slowed, tourism in the region has seen steady growth, reviving the economy and interest in the last few years. The Scottish Borders are the country’s leading destination for brief sojourns, spurring huge growth in both the area’s retail and hospitality industries. Vacationers outside of Scotland are taking notice; Americans comprise 15% of visitors each year to the Scottish Borders.

What are they flocking to? Quaint gift shops, cozy eateries, and charming villages, where a distinct mix of modern and traditional has been preserved, are all on offer. Accommodations range from luxury hotels to classic inns, and world-class facilities for recreation like fishing, mountain biking, and golfing also are available.

Moreover, the beauty of the mill towns has not been lost on the Scottish government, which is hard at work cultivating interest in the region. The installation of a new train line, the Waverley Rail Link, is among the initiatives making the Scottish Borders more enticing to visitors. It will connect the Borders to Scotland’s capital, Edinburgh, and make the region more accessible to residents and tourists alike.

It is fitting that a region known for its storied fabric should have a story of its own to tell — and one with a happy ending.

For more information or to plan a trip to the Scottish Borders, go to Scotborders.gov.uk. And for a taste of Scotland in New York City, celebrate Tartan Week, March 31–April 8, tartanweekny.com.