Slopes, Shops & Sundance
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
Metals and medals have run through heart of Park City, Utah, a historic mining town and supreme ski destination, since the 1860s. The metal was silver: More than $400 million of it was extracted from the hills and mountains surrounding Park City in its mining heyday. The windfall created 23 millionaires, including George Hearst, father of newspaper titan William Randolph Hearst.
As for medals, bronze, silver, and gold were awarded here during the 2002 Olympic Winter Games, the first Olympiad of the new millennium. About a third of the “Salt Lake City” Olympic events actually took place in and around Park City. Millions of dollars were poured into Park City to host the events, and visitors today still benefit from the additions and improvements.
Park City is located in Utah’s Summit County, 36 miles east of Salt Lake City International Airport via the six-lane I-80. The full-time population is around 7,000 and there are almost as many units and rooms to accommodate guests year round. Within city limits, altitudes range from 6,720 to 8,460 feet above sea level. The surrounding Wasatch Mountains rise to more 10,000 feet. If it’s your first time visiting an area with these altitudes, you might want to check with your doctor to see if you’re susceptible to altitude sickness. At times during the first few days of your visit, you might be a little out of breath.
A good way to begin your exploration of the area’s history is to tour the Park City Museum, located on Main Street. Here you’ll learn how silver was discovered in these mountains, the subsequent rise and fall of fortunes, and how skiing became the town’s major industry after World War II. Head downstairs for one of the museum’s most popular exhibits, the Territorial Jail. This is the original site of the jail that held inmates accused of robbery, drunkenness, gambling, and other Wild West sins (528 Main St., 435-615-9559, free).
Main Street is also home to numerous boutiques, galleries, quaint hotels, inns, and B&Bs. Oh, and there is food, too: Fine dining hot spots include Shabu for “freestyle Asian cuisine” (333 Main St., 435-645-7253), Grappa for a Tuscan-style menu (151 Main St., 435-645-0636), and Mustang for American specialties (890 Main St., 435-658-3975). But these are just a few of Park City’s more than 100 restaurants that feature all sorts cuisines to fit every craving – and every pocketbook.
Now that you’re all fueled up, it’s time to enjoy what Park City does best. There are three main ski resorts around the city: Deer Valley (www.deervalley.com); the Canyons Resort, about five miles from Main Street (www.thecanyons.com), and Park City Mountain Resort 1103 (www.parkcitymountain.com). With 8,625 acres of what the Utah Ski Association likes to call the “greatest snow on Earth,” 337 runs, and 53 lifts, the slopes in Park City draw skiers and snowboarders from all over the world. There’s something for everyone, from lessons for beginners to moguls and chutes for expert skiers. These days, it’s not uncommon to see fathers snowboarding right alongside their children.
The venues used in the 2002 Olympic Winter Games remain active, enabling visitors to have their own Olympic experience. Tourists can get their pictures taken at the official medals podium at Utah Olympic Park, which also features the Alf Engen Ski Museum (3000 Bear Hollow Drive, 435-658-4200, $7 park admission includes museum, $5 children). Park City is the home of the American ski and snowboard team and the United States Ski Association. One of the most exciting Olympic options is racing down the bobsled track at 75 miles an hour. You can also take a guided two-hour snowmobile tour across the Rocky Mountains. Shorter local tours traverse wide-open bowls, tree-filled glades, and numerous backcountry trails.
Before there was the thrill of alpine, there was the serenity of cross-country skiing. Park City offers several options for this demanding sport. Try the groomed trails or take a custom tour. Snowshoeing also offers a good workout and a great way to get close to nature.
If you really want to cut loose, intermediate and advanced skiers can learn the art of Nordic ski jumping during a two-hour “learn to jump” clinic with experienced jumpers and coaches at Utah Olympic Park ($65 during the winter season). Or, if you’re looking for something less taxing, take a horse-drawn sleigh ride through the mountains and surrounding areas.
As a baby boomer, my downhill days don’t have a lot to do with skiing. If you’re beginning to feel the same way, not to worry: There are plenty of things to do around the slopes for non-skiers.
For one, there’s shopping. Main Street and the surrounding area offer myriad places to peruse. Downtown, the historic buildings house trendy boutiques, including Mary Jane’s (613 Main St., 435-645-7463), Envy Boutique (608 Main St., 435-658-3689), and Great Garb (540 Main St., 435-649-2422). Budget-conscious shoppers in the know can mine the troves offered at the Exchange, a consignment store (350 1/2 Main St., 435-940-0387), and at Styleworks for discounted fashions from major showrooms (1890 Bonanta Drive, 435-649-6890).
Nightlife rocks along Main Street, as well in most of the resorts and hotels. As the saying goes: Park City may be in Utah, but it’s not of Utah. But the two places do share some quirky little liquor laws. Cocktails can only contain one shot of alcohol, doubles are not allowed, and no one can have two drinks on the bar or table at the same time. Customers of drinking establishments are also charged a “membership” fee, usually about $4. There are also six liquor stores in town, just in case you want to imbibe at your hotel or condo. But take note: At this altitude, a little alcohol goes a long way.
Perhaps the ultimate non-skiing event is Robert Redford’s annual Sundance Film Festival, coming up January 19-29. If you’re thinking of attending, act quickly. Rooms and tickets are going faster than you can say Weinstein.
Top-tier lodging in Park City includes the august Stein Eriksen Lodge (7700 Stein Way, 866-773-8980, rates begin at $375, www.steinlodge.com), named after the 1952 Norwegian Olympic gold medalist, and the luxurious all-suite Hotel Park City (2001 Park Ave., 888-999-0098, suites begin at $299, www.hotelparkcity.com), with golf on the premises. The town also offers historic inns, boutique hotels, and even dormitories for those on a budget. Many area homes and condos are available to rent as well – investment properties or second homes owned by individuals.
According to the Chamber of Commerce, visitors spend an average of $360 here a day on including lodging, food, lift tickets, ski rentals, entertainment, and car rentals. But it can certainly be done for a lot less – and a lot more. In Park City, the clear blue skies are the limit.