Where else but the fastest-growing city in Mexico can you find, in the course of a 10-minute walk, authentic taquerias and upscale Italian restaurants, local markets and designer clothing shops, all just a stone’s throw from the turquoise Caribbean Sea? It gets harder every day to picture Playa del Carmen as the small fishing village it was 20 years ago, surrounded by dense jungle and mangrove forests. For the past decade, construction teams and half-built luxury condos have been a common sight as the city steadily sprawls outward, following the lead of its white-sand beaches. Some fishing boats remain – the restaurants need fresh seafood, after all – but they are joined by cruise ships and hourly ferries to the island of Cozumel, 40 minutes away. Playa is a city in flux, and one that is best visited before it becomes too big for that 10-minute stroll.

It’s not hard to understand why the city is expanding: Playa, just 44 miles south of Cancun on the Yucatan Peninsula coastline dubbed the “Riviera Maya,” has grown very popular. The European tourists who helped develop it as an alternative to Americanized Cancun still dominate, but more Americans are turning to Playa as well. And who can blame us? Playa offers the best of both worlds: the facilities and beautiful beaches of Cancun in a more laid-back, sophisticated setting. Playa is also an excellent alternative to the lavish, often cookie-cutter resorts that line the Riviera Maya coast. Why limit yourself to one resort complex when you can have a whole city’s worth of beaches, restaurants, bars, and shops at your disposal?

That was my reasoning, anyway, when I booked a recent trip south of the border with a large group of family and friends. An hour’s drive from Cancun International Airport, Playa is reached easily via taxi, comfortable bus (Autobuses Riviera, $7), or shared shuttle van ($18 a person). Hotels, many refreshingly small, abound for all budgets along the mostly pedestrian main drag, La Quinta Avenida, and the coast, where they often compete for slender swaths of beach. Hotel Colibri is a moderately priced and centrally located seaside option, with clean rooms and cozy hammocks (1a Av. Norte, between calles 10 and 12, www.hotel-colibri.com; cabanas and rooms, $57-$85). More luxurious alternatives are the Deseo Hotel + Lounge, a sleek boutique hotel with a sexy minimalist air, and its brand-new sister property, the Hotel Basico; both have rooftop pools and locations in the heart of Quinta Av. (at calle 12 and calle 10, respectively; www.hoteldeseo.com and www.hotelbasico.com; rooms $158-$218).

I sought peace and quiet that wasn’t too far from the town’s action or a spacious beach, so I looked to the less developed northern end of town and the 23-room Hotel Riviera del Sol (1a Av. Norte at calle 30, www.rivieradelsol.com; $79-$101, including breakfast). The personable staff claims to treat guests like family, and they were indeed very helpful and accommodating to our large group. Rooms are simple but tastefully appointed, and the pool’s intimate setting, surrounded by great palms and flowering plants, feels more like a friend’s backyard than a hotel. Noticeably missing are screaming children and loud patrons scrambling for a swim-up bar.

The hotel’s location isn’t too shabby, either – one block from Quinta Av.’s shops and cafes, and one block from the neighboring beach clubs of Mamitas and Playa Tukan. Public beach clubs in Mexico are generally similar in nature: Patrons can rent lounge chairs and palapa-like umbrellas, order food and drinks, play volleyball, and organize diving, snorkeling, and windsurfing excursions. They can be places to happily dehydrate yourself with sun, saltwater, and cocktails or people-watch and nap the day away. The slice of Caribbean, however, can run the gamut of gorgeously inviting to barely swimmable. The Riviera Maya coastline is rocky and murky in parts, but that doesn’t mean a resort or beach club won’t be built there. Fortunately, the clean, aquamarine waters and wide sandy spaces of Mamitas and Playa Tukan are lovely, and both offer worthy menus at their beach bars to boot. Mamitas’ chicken fajitas and shrimp and avocado ceviche were favorites among my group, and were complemented by a refreshing chelada, a Mexican concoction of lime juice, ice, and beer in a salt-rimmed cup. Visitors really looking to relax can follow their meal with a massage at Playa Tukan’s open-air Natural Spa ($45/hour).

Off the beach, countless charming restaurants of many ethnicities make dining decisions difficult. The restaurants of the Yucatan peninsula’s tourist areas, while often full of atmosphere and mariachi music, are not particularly known for great food, but several have stood out on my visits. (Keep in mind that the farther inland you venture, the more restaurants serving “real” Mexican food – at more Mexican prices – you will find.) The $2 smoothies at Xlapak can’t be beat (Quinta Av., between calles 12 and 14), nor can the under-$5 price of the unlimited breakfast buffet – surely a sign of American influence – at La Quinta Pasion on calle 26. Las Delicias (Quinta Av. at calle 22) boasts an excellent staff and primarily Mexican dinner menu; among its highlights are the chicken mole and the deliciously fresh Caribbean seafood grill for two, served tableside on a steaming grill. Farther south, Yaxche (calle 8, between Quinta and 10 Avs.) is renowned for its innovative Mayan cuisine; try the traditional cochinita pibil (pork with spices cooked in banana leaf) with a “Mayan cocktail.”

At night, make like a local and take it easy. “Spring breakers don’t come to Playa,” explained Beatriz Mendoza, co-owner of Las Delicias and a five-year Playa resident, “and this is good for us. People who come here are not looking for craziness.” But you needn’t be crazy to find the swings that hang in lieu of stools at many bars hard to resist. In Playa, visitors still enjoy a party, just a more grownup one than is typically found in its neighbor to the north. There’s no shortage of bars in which to find a good tequila shot – one that doesn’t require salt and lime – or shops selling full bottles, for that matter. And though raucous all-night clubs are nowhere to be found, there are many places at which to get your groove on alongside live bands, DJs, or fire-dancers, like beach bars Blue Parrot (calle 12) and Capitan Tutix (calle 4). Salsa dancing rules at the Cuban bars in town, including La Bodeguita del Medio (Paseo del Carmen), which offers live music six nights a week.

Night or day, the affable small-town feel of Playa del Carmen is unmistakable – for the time being. By the end of my six-day stay, I was surprised to realize I knew a fair number of locals. A short walk in town yielded several “Hola, Lauritas,” waves, and nods of recognition. I recalled their own descriptions of Playa – “natural,” “special,” “unique” – and I understood why they’d want so desperately to protect it from becoming another Cancun. With its natural beauty and welcoming atmosphere, Playa exudes friendliness, intimacy, relaxation – and fun. Just leave the wet T-shirt and beer goggles at home.

For groups, a travel agency is helpful. I used Viva Mexico! (800-639-6639, www.vivamex.net).