Manhattan book publicist Lynn Goldberg took her first trip to the Jersey shore four years ago. “Serene is not the first word most people associate with the Jersey Shore,” she said. “But Spring Lake is a treasure, a lovely town that’s never been corrupted by honky tonk. Plus, you don’t need a car. You can walk or bike everywhere. And it’s retained its special character from the 19th century, when people sat on the large open porches, sipped lemonade, chatted, napped, and read books, and strolled along the boardwalk to cool off.”

The owner of the Ashling Cottage, where Ms. Goldberg likes to stay, Bill Moran, put it more bluntly. “If you’re coming for excitement you’re coming to the wrong town.”

There’s plenty to do just beyond the borders: five golf courses within a 20-minute drive, both Ocean Grove and Monmouth Race Track a short drive north, Atlantic City to the south, and world-class deep-sea fishing all around. But the point of Spring Lake is to stay put and veg out, elegantly.

It is possible to wander around Spring Lake even in high season and see very few people and almost no traffic. In the fall, the town reverts to its year-round population of less than 4,000 people and becomes even more tranquil. Or as mystery writer and Spring Lake homeowner Mary Higgins Clark wrote of a character in her novel “On the Street Where You Live”: He “enjoyed Spring Lake best once late autumn set in. By then the summer people had closed their houses, not appearing even for weekends.” Locals say, however, that up to 70% of residents may be fulltime these days, something Ms. Clark’s character was chagrined to notice: People were concluding that the 70-mile commute to New York was worth it, so long as they could “begin and end the day in this quietly beautiful seaside community.”

Most of Spring Lake today looks like a Judy Garland-Mickey Rooney movie set. It’s filled with huge Victorian houses with wraparound porches, carefully tended broad lawns, tree-lined sidewalks, flower filled parks and public spaces, and a main street with chic shops selling surfing gear, antiques, jewelry, homemade ice cream and candy, and books. Zoning encourages ground-floor retail and discourages – virtually forbids – chain stores. The result is that the tiny, upscale boutiques feel very much in character with the lavish, nearby houses. No ugly note is seen or sounded.

Proprietor Patricia Colrick of the Landmarks Bookstore (306 Morris Ave., 732-449-0804) calls the serenity good for reading. In addition to best sellers and an excellent children’s section, her shop stocks useful books on the region and the ecology of the shore.

The two-mile-long boardwalk, the longest noncommercial one in New Jersey, is immaculate, unblighted by any buildings, or by crass trinket or cotton candy stands. The beautifully wide beach that beckons visitors is also strictly regulated and patrolled – no eating or drinking is allowed. And no radios or boom boxes dare intrude.

The result of all this behavior control is very pleasant. Not a piece of litter or garbage is to be seen, no noise beyond singing birds is to be heard, and even the humans seem to speak in low tones.

Named for what Mr. Moran calls its “wedding-perfect lake,” Spring Lake, the town, was founded in 1903. Spring Lake, the upscale destination, dates from 1869, when the railroad opened a station in nearby (and equally elegant) Sea Girt. Wealthy New Yorkers and Philadelphians built “cottages” (i.e., mansions) for themselves, and developed resort hotels to attract affluent visitors. It quickly became called the Irish Riviera, though preservationist Dorothy Lau argues it was never as Irish as people seem to think. “Even today,” she said, “Spring Lake has no more than 60% Irish.”

Still, many stores reflect an Irish sensibility. The Irish Centre (1120 Third Ave., 732-449-6650), which sells Irish products, such as Waterford crystal and Belleek china, exhibits work by Irish artists. Susan Murphy’s Homemade Ice Cream (601 Warren Ave., 732-449-1130) emphasizes its Irish heritage with green awnings and trim on a white, clapboard cottage. Another marvelous ice cream store, Hoffman’s (569 Church St., Spring Lake Heights, 732-974-2253) requires a bike ride – which is just as well because the portions are enormous.

Other than resting, eating is the best thing to do in Spring Lake. Within a five-minute walk of Ashling Cottage are three renowned, though expensive, restaurants. Spring Lake is oddly dry – custom, not law, I’m told – and most restaurants encourage you to bring your own wine.

Whispers (202 Monmouth Ave., 732-974-9755), just across the lake from Ashling Cottage, is inside the Hewitt-Wellington Hotel. It serves contemporary American food in a Victorian setting of crystal chandeliers, white linen tablecloths, silver flatware, and fresh flowers. Its chef and owner, Mark Mikolajczyk, trained with David Bouley in New York and builds on that heritage of imagination, superb ingredients, and occasional long waits.

Seafood restaurant Black Trumpet (7 Atlantic Ave., 732-449-4700), named for a local mushroom, is ranked in the top 10 Jersey Shore restaurants by Zagat. Island Palm Grill (1321 Third Ave., 732-449-1909) serves Gulf Coast and Caribbean food prepared by chef David Kruse, who worked with Bobby Flay at New York’s Mesa Grill.

Who’s on Third (1300 Third Ave., 732-449-4233), a local favorite, is far less expensive. Its wonderful breakfasts are served late into the afternoon. Unlike the rest of relaxing Spring Lake in autumn, it’s nearly always crowded.

Where To Stay

Ashling Cottage (106 Sussex Ave., 732-449-3553, $85-$155 after October 15) is a bed and breakfast within a block of the beach and the lake. Built in 1877, the large Victorian house with a wraparound porch and gazebo, has been completely modernized. The entire house can be rented for business retreats for $1,500 each night.

The Breakers (1507 Ocean Ave., 732-449-7700, rates begin at $100 in the off-season) is the only full-service hotel on Spring Lake’s oceanfront. Built in the late 1800s and renovated several times since, the Breakers retains its Gilded Age opulence.

Sea Crest by the Sea (19 Tuttle Ave., 800-803-9031, $350-$425 off-season) boasts wide Victorian porches. Every room includes a whirlpool tub, fireplace, Frette linens, brass beds, carved mirrors – and chocolates on the pillows at night. Off-season rates range from $350 to $425.

Getting There

Less than two hours on NJ Transit (800-626-RIDE) from Penn Station, or 90 minutes by car. Take the NJ Turnpike south to Exit 11, the Garden State Parkway. Take the parkway south to Exit 98, and then Route 34 South to the first traffic circle. Follow Route 524 east to the ocean.