The Stuff of Legend

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

With its black basalt cliffs, cascading waterfalls, lush forests, and a mighty river, the Columbia River Gorge in the Pacific Northwest is a land steeped in legend. Native lore has it that before being turned into a mountain, Washington’s Mount St. Helens was a beautiful woman loved by two warring Indian chief brothers. The woman, Loo-Wit, guarded the tribes’ fire on a bridge connecting the two brothers – Wy’East to the south and Klickitat to the north. Spanning the Columbia River, the bridge was the Great Spirit’s sign of peace between the brothers. But they fought over Loo-Wit’s affections, and the Great Spirit shattered the bridge, turning all three characters into mountains – Wy’East into Oregon’s Mount Hood, Klickitat into Washington’s Mount Adams, and Loo-Wit into Mount St. Helens. Occasionally, all three vented their frustrations in volcanic fire and rock, something Mount St. Helens does to this day.


Today the bridge – named Bridge of the Gods – is made of steel rather than rock, yet it still spans the Columbia, connecting Oregon and Washington. It is the third oldest bridge in the Columbia River Gorge, and it remains a heavily used link for those visiting the two states.


Located just east of Portland, the Columbia River Gorge captures the essence of the Pacific Northwest. A place of repose, it has something for the professional windsurfer, weekend hiker, spa-lover, or food connoisseur. Even with only a day, you can experience the gorge’s treasures with a good hike, a bath in the surrounding area’s mineral spring waters, and a taste of unique Northwest beer.


Of the numerous hikes available, Washington’s Dog Mountain is one of the best. The three-mile trek to the top is tough, but for the summit’s all-encompassing view of the gorge, it’s worth it.


To get there, drive east from Portland on I-84. The interstate quickly turns into a picturesque two-lane highway winding alongside the Columbia River. The deeper into the gorge you drive, the more you feel like you are entering the painted background of a Native American diorama in the Museum of Natural History.


Formed over thousands of years, the Columbia River Gorge is the only near-sea level route through the Cascade Mountain Range. It divides Washington and Oregon and stretches for 80 miles, from the high desert to the ocean. Deemed the nation’s first National Scenic Area in 1986, the gorge’s canyon walls reach 4,000 feet high at points, and there are 77 waterfalls on the Oregon side alone.


You’ll reach the town of Cascade Locks 45 miles after leaving Portland. There, a $1 toll takes you across the Bridge of the Gods into Washington. Continue east for 15 miles to Dog Mountain. The trailhead is clearly marked on the left side of the road.


Leaving from the banks of the Columbia River, the trail’s two choices are marked “More Difficult,” and “Measurably Easier.” They join at the top. Take the “More Difficult” route for your ascent and then loop down on the easier one. You won’t have to cover the same terrain twice, and the gentler grade of the “Measurably Easier” is a kinder descent on the knees.


The climb takes you steeply through second-growth forest, and just when you think your legs can’t take anymore, the tree ceiling opens and a sweeping expanse of rocky outcroppings and bountiful wildflower meadows greet you. Panoramic views of the gorge emerge, and from here to the summit, you are high enough above the canyon walls to see the snowcapped peaks of Mount Hood, Adams, and St. Helens. Remember to bring extra clothing with you – once you’re out of the trees, the wind picks up and it gets chilly.


The steeper ascent allows for more time at the summit, and after refueling with lunch or a snack, head down the eastern trail through emerald forest like groves. The trees have dark green, velvety textures from the moss hanging off their towering trunks. Occasional views of the gorge accompany your way down.


A good stretch can ease your sore muscles, but a hot bath will do wonders. Carson Mineral Hot Springs Resort (372 St. Martin Road, Carson, Wash., 509-427-8292), nine miles west of Dog Mountain, is not for those looking for a fancy spa experience. Built 103 years ago, the resort feels like a step back in time. And for $12 a person – two for one on weekdays – it offers a blissful spa experience.


With dim lights, ceiling fans, the smell of sulfur, creaking floors, and a smiling bath attendant, the bathhouse provides old European-style therapy.


The 125-degree mineral water is pumped from nearby Wind River into long, cast-iron, claw-foot tubs, each surrounded by white shower curtains. Clothing is not an option, and men and women are separated into different rooms. The antique tubs are a bit funky, yet the soothing hot mineral water dispels any apprehension.


The soak can last 10 to 30 minutes, after which you are led to a quiet room and wrapped in layers of cotton sheets and wool blankets on a bed. Soon your mind enters a dreamy, meditative state, your body sweats out all its toxins, and your stress dissipates.


Visit the resort soon – modern times are finally catching up and everything, save the original hotel, is scheduled to be leveled and replaced by a new, larger spa, golf course, restaurant, hotel, and conference rooms.


After your wrap, take a cool shower and turn your thoughts to your growling stomach. The Big Horse Brew Pub (115 State St., Hood River, Ore., 541-386-4411) in Hood River, 20 miles east of Carson on the Oregon side of the gorge, Big Horse Brew Pub has some of the best food and beer this side of the Rockies. Hood River itself is one of the premiere wind- and kite-surfing meccas of the world, and with quaint shops, equipment rental stores, and a laidback crowd, it’s a wonderful place to end your day.


The pub sits atop State Street, overlooking the town with magnificent views of the gorge. With names like Nightmare Imperial Stout, Pale Rider IPA, and the Branded Black Porter, this outpost brewery’s beer perfectly matches its home-cooked fare – brisket slowly cooked for 12 hours in a special sauce, or buffalo chili with thick, rich pieces of meat.


After such a satisfying day, what could be better than replenishment by full-bodied beer and hearty food? Just put your feet up, warm your face in the late-afternoon sun, and take in the views of a river valley so grand it has spawned legends of warring chiefs, a beautiful maiden, and a bridge of the gods.


The New York Sun

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