Venice’s Little Sister

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

Why leave Venice for Padua? Here are three good reasons: Giotto, Menabuoi, and Donatello.

Padua, the historic, frescoed, and laid-back city less than half an hour from Venice, is home to the Scrovegni Chapel, the Basilica of St. Anthony of Padua, and the Duomo and Baptistry of St. John — all of which offer must-see art and architecture.

“Giotto came to Padua as the most celebrated painter of his age, from the court of Pope Boniface VIII and Assisi,” the director of the Town Museums Systems, Dr. Davide Banzato, said. “The Scrovegni Chapel is not only the best preserved example of his work, but by far his best. The painter developed a new — Renaissance — art by studying ancient Roman sculptures, even importing their motifs into his paintings. It’s possible, too, that he created the architecture for the chapel.”

The chapel’s origins lie in the anxieties of the Scrovegni family. It was built by Enrico, to intercede for his father’s salvation, as well as for his own. Consecrated in 1303 within the walls of an ancient Roman amphitheater that still bounds the park setting of the chapel today, it is sumptuously decorated. Under a blue starry heaven, narration unfolds in scenes arranged in three tiers illustrating the life of Jesus. It ends with the imposing vision of the Last Judgment. The immediate impression on entry is one of brilliant color and movement. Any guide can point out the self-portrait of Giotto on request. Scrovegni is huddled under the Virgin’s protection far from an ingeniously horrific scene of hell and sinners to his right. The main altar is adorned with sculptures by Pisano, which according to Dr. Banzato, can be numbered amongst the most elegant of the Italian Gothic style.

Giotto also worked on the 1218 Palazzo della Ragione. Dante remarked “Cimabue thought to hold the field in painting, and now Giotto hath the cry,” but alas, a fire in the 15th century destroyed his work here. Redecorated shortly afterward, the walls of the central hall — stretching the length of the building — are thronged with boldly conceived astrological subjects. The Palazzo, which dominates the historic center of Padua, is flanked on either side by daily markets in the Piazza della Fruta and Piazza delle Erbe. Under the building is a warren of food shops and market stalls where wild strawberries and live eels are sold.

Sooner or later, the winding streets seem to lead to the lively, thronged Basilica, home to 30 bronzes by Donatello and many frescoes by Altichiero. Known simply as Il Santo to Paduans, the Basilica was built immediately after St. Anthony’s death in 1231. Largely Romanesque Gothic, it has eight domes and spires of eastern inspiration. St. Anthony was known to love children greatly, and he is said to have been seen playing with the Christ child. Childless couples come to pray at his magnificent tomb, the lucky returning with their infants for the annual festival of blessing each January. The altar is adorned by life-size bronze figures by Donatello; outside in the piazza, pigeons wheel about Donatello’s majestically scaled masterpiece known as the Gattemelata, a bronze equestrian monument completed in 1453 that stands opposite the house where the sculptor lived.

Michelangelo had a hand in the design of the Duomo, erected between the 16th and 18th centuries. It is located on the Prato della Valle, which is dotted with 18th-century statuary. But the nearby St. John Baptistry is a visitor’s prime destination, featuring Giusto di Menabuoi’s most complete fresco, recently restored to splendor. Paradise floats above on the ceiling while the walls recount for an illiterate populace the stories of John the Baptist, Mary, the Passion, Christ’s death, and the Resurrection. The adjacent Bishops Hall shows 100 of these dignitaries chatting in animated pairs, each cutting an attractive figure on a trompe l’oeil gallery running around the walls.

A walk through the streets of the Old Ghetto, now an antiques area, takes you to the Palazzo del Bo, the main seat of the University of Padua. Founded in 1222, it is the second oldest university in Europe. Galileo taught here: A small room at the Basilica is where the Inquisition inquired about his controversial predilection for casting horoscopes — not his theories about the Earth being round. The steeply welled arena-like university anatomy theater is the oldest in the world; built in 1594, it was in use until the 19th century. Its vertiginous pitch is not for the queasy.

Go, Eat, Stay

Trains to Padua run every 20 minutes from Venice’s St. Lucia station. The ticket is less than $10 and the ride is about 25 minutes. Once there, the Padua Card offers discounted access to multiple museums and public transport: www.padovacard.it

Trattoria Acappagnella (Via del Santo 67) offers regional food at a fair price: A three-course dinner for two with wine runs about $75. At Gelateria Grom (Via Roma 101) locals line up for the icy treats. Patisserie Breda (Via Umberto I, 26) sells prizewinning pastries. Macondo Ecokafe (Via Umberto I, 68) offers organic juices and a restful lunch.

Hotel Donatello (Via del Santo 102. www.hoteldonatello.net) overlooks the Basilica. A room for two with twin beds and a continental breakfast is about $192 per night.


The New York Sun

© 2024 The New York Sun Company, LLC. All rights reserved.

Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The material on this site is protected by copyright law and may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used.

The New York Sun

Sign in or  Create a free account

By continuing you agree to our Privacy Policy and Terms of Use