When in Florence

The cobblestoned streets of Florence are often so clogged with tourists that it’s difficult for a first-time visitor to hear Italian spoken amid the hum of English, German, and Japanese, let alone find the corners of the city where locals pass the hours. Having worked in Italy’s Renaissance jewel for three months, I learned that Florentines, unlike tourists, won’t shell out $12 for gelato. Instead of walking through the crowded historic center, residents bicycle along side streets and in parks at the city’s outskirts. And they opt to buy mortadella bologna in grocery stores or the central market, not in expensive macellerie, or butcher shops. I learned to navigate the city like a local. When experienced in this manner, a visitor can see beyond Florence’s veneer — thick with crowded museums and overpriced pastas — and, at least temporarily, join the ranks of a boisterous, hearty community that is distinctly Italian.SHOPPINGAn impeccably preserved city steeped in luxurious jewelry, leather, and paper goods, Florence has long been a destination for the fashion-forward. But a resident in search of the latest Furla bag is as likely to head to an outlet mall as she is to stroll the ritzy Via Tornabuoni, a street in Florence’s historic center that is home to dozens of designer shops. Two outlet malls are easily accessible by public transportation: Barberino Designer Outlet, just half an hour from Florence, has Prada, Furla, Stefanel, Bruno Magli, and Intimissimi. The Mall has Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Tod’s, among other upscale offerings. Prices are uniformly lower and these shopping centers tend to be far less crowded than their respective branches in the center of Florence. Buses for the malls leave from Florence’s main bus station off of Piazza della Stazione, the main train station. As schedules tend to change frequently, travelers should pick up a schedule the day before a planned departure. For Florence’s signature hand-decorated stationery, my favorites are Cartoleria Il Parione for letterhead (Via Parione 10/r, 55 215 684; or Via dello Studio 11/r, 55 215 030), and Alberto Cozzi (Via Parione 35/r; 55 294 968) for leather-bound books. At the latter shop, friendly artisans bind and restore handsome volumes on long worktables; they will often emboss initials on purchased items free of charge.CULINARY DELIGHTSIf you arrive early at the Mercato Centrale (Piazza di Mercato Centrale, north of the Church of San Lorenzo) — before 9 a.m. is not too early — you will blend into the throngs of locals purchasing their daily groceries. At this central market, visitors can sample the meats, cheeses, and dried fruits on display before pocketing kilos of pecorino cheese or raw prosciutto for a picnic later in the day.A chef at La Pentola D’Oro (Via di Mezzo 24/26r; 055 241 808), Giuseppe Alessi creates one-of-a-kind dishes inspired by medieval and Renaissance Tuscan cuisine; his walnut pasta is especially delicious. The osteria, or tavern, of the same name upstairs has a different but equally appetizing menu at lower prices.Closer to the city center, just west of the Duomo (the enormous central cathedral), is Fiaschetteria Nuvoli (Piazza dell’Olio 15r; 055 239 6616). Its storefront is deceptively plain, but an inexpensive gem resides in the basement of this petite winery. A staircase at the rear leads to two small wood-paneled rooms crammed with tables and accompanying benches. Handwritten menus feature three or four hot dishes a day for only $5, as well as traditional Tuscan offerings such as crostini, a crunchy bread topped with olive, red pepper, or tomato spreads.Gelateria La Carraia (Piazza N. Sauro 25/r; 055 280 695) sells a small cone of creamy, luscious gelato for just $1.40. With your purchase in hand, perch atop a stone wall lining the Arno River and enjoy dessert with a view. Or for a taste of cantuccini, the classic Tuscan almond biscotti, travelers have a pick of at least three shops on Via Ognissanti between Via Melegnano and Via Curtatone, where pastries sell for much cheaper than on Via Calzaioli, a main artery in the city’s bustling center.ACCOMMODATIONSOne of the more beautiful squares in Florence is in the historic Oltrarno quarter; Piazza Santo Spirito teems with matrons in housedresses shopping at the morning fruit-and-vegetable market and teenagers flirting on the church steps during lunch hour and after dark. The neighborhood flanks the southern shore of the Arno River, and the blocks around the piazza are chock-full of locally-owned bakeries, drugstores, and cafés.The hotels in this area are at most a 15-minute walk from the Piazza Santo Spirito as well as from the Ponte Vecchio (the oldest of Florence’s six bridges) and the rest of the historic center. Pensione Sorelle Bandini (Piazza Santo Spirito 9; 055 215 308) is an atmospheric place in a state of elegant decay right on the busy piazza. A selection of rooms in the Pensione Annalena (Via Romana 34; 055 222 402) promise more tranquil accommodations, facing the lush Boboli Gardens. Other nearby options include Istituto Gould (Via dei Serragli 49; 055 212 576), Soggiorno Alessandra (Via Borgo San Frediano, 055 290 424), and Casa Santo Nome di Gesu (Piazza del Carmine; 055 213 856). Travelers should be forewarned: These hotels tend to be slightly more shabby and spartan, but they offer the opportunity to take in the uncensored sights and late-night sounds of Florence.WINE & DINEAt La Dolce Vita, a wine bar in the piazza in front of the church of Santa Maria del Carmine, gregarious young Italians recline on outdoor couches and sip Spumante. The posh crowds at Caffé Giacosa (Via della Spada 10r, 055 277 6328) — the eatery opened by couture designer Roberto Cavalli — spill out onto the street until the wee hours of the morning. And at Noir, formerly known as Capocaccia, patrons take their drinks overlooking the Arno River. Perhaps the most popular bar in the city, Noir is situated just west of Ponte Santa Trinita, on the north side of the river. But the best bargain can be found at Colle Bereto, where, between 7 p.m. and 9 p.m., the purchase of an aperitivo comes with access to an impressive buffet. Bartenders there mix gin, vermouth, and campari into a perfect negroni, the cocktail that traditionally starts an evening in Florence.RECREATIONA popular Florentine pastime for families is to hit the cobblestones on two wheels. Bikes can be rented in the piazza directly in front of the Santa Maria Novella train station (Biciclette a Noleggio; 055 65 05 295); one hour for $2.10 and five hours for $5.70. Riding away from the city center, cyclists (and rollerbladers) will encounter Le Cascine, a large park with a paved promenade lining the Arno. It’s a straight shot west, with the river to your left, through to the park’s end, where a pleasant café with outdoor seating serves cappuccinos and snacks. Picnics on the protruding buttresses of Ponte Santa Trinita are another local tradition. The site is one bridge west of the Ponte Vecchio and offers incredible views.Between September and May, tickets for soccer games are sold at a kiosk near the post office off of Piazza della Repubblica. The uniforms of the Fiorentina are purple and gold; don a garish striped scarf along with masses of jubilant fans and root for the home team.

When in Florence

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