Where History & Myth Meet

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The New York Sun

The island of Djerba, situated off the southeast coast of Tunisia, has many enticements. The Lotus Eaters lured Ulysses there. For tourists, the pristine beaches, 27-hole golf course, state-of-the-art spas, and luxury resorts are some of the main attractions. And then, there’s El Ghriba — an ancient synagogue, whose arched interior is adorned with vibrantly colored tiles, and austere metal chandeliers.

Several myths and legends shroud the house of worship, including the claim that it is one of the world’s oldest synagogues, dating back to 586 B.C.E. Physical evidence of this is said to exist in the form of a stone from the original Temple in Jerusalem which, depending on who is giving the account, is either embedded in the foundation, planted in one of the synagogue’s arches, or lying under the Ark where the Torah scrolls are held. To most visitors, however, the building that houses the active congregation appears relatively contemporary.

Like most of the structures in Djerba, the exterior has bright white walls punctuated by blue shutters and doors that match the Mediterranean sky. Built in the mid-19th century, the sanctuary inside features Tunisian influences – its color palette includes aquatic blues and warm yellows – yet also bears a resemblance to America’s oldest Jewish congregation, the Touro synagogue in Newport, R.I.

The Ghriba Synagogue is open to tourists year-round, and many visitors enter the house of worship with their feet bared and heads covered. Many subscribe to the legend of the “ghriba,” Arabic for stranger, a tale that venerates the bones of a woman who perished in a fire that left her body miraculously intact. It is believed that the synagogue was built on the site of the debris of this woman’s home. Many visitors, particularly women, pray to her for miracles of healing and fertility, lighting candles and writing wishes on the surfaces of eggshells.

To the Tunisian government, the coexistence of the Jewish and Muslim communities is a rare sign of peace and tolerance in an Arab country, and government officials are dedicated to preserving that reputation. In 2002, a terrorist attack outside El Ghriba — Al Qaeda claimed responsibility for the bombing, which killed 21 people — temporarily deterred visitors. But government efforts and increased security at the historic synagogue and in hotels has fostered the return of tourism. The number of tourists is on the rise again, with the synagogue attracting about 5,000 visitors in the past year.

In Djerba, the Jewish population was at its highest — about 125,000 — in the 1940s after World War II, but a decline followed the establishment of the State of Israel and fell again when fears that Tunisian independence from France would threaten the peaceful coexistence of Jews and Arabs. The population was further reduced in response to the 1967 Six-Day War. Today, there are between 4,000 and 5,000 Jews living in Tunisia, with about 1,000 of those residing in Djerba.

Near the synagogue, visitors can find an array of restaurants, serving up Tunisian specialties such as brik (a deep-fried crispy stuffed phyllo pastry that oozes running egg yolk when you bite into it), couscous, and honeyed pastries. Soft drinks such as a Tunisian soda, Boga, which tastes like an herbal, slightly medicinal version of cola mixed with caramel, are popular with the locals.

Some tourists continue their trip to the northern part of Tunisia with a visit to the town of Le Kef. There, a restored synagogue, also called El Ghriba, has been saved from ruin at the behest of Tunisia’s President Zine El Abidine Ben Ali. Once home to 3,000 Jews, there is no longer an active congregation in the town, but the government-funded restoration, undertaken in 1994, was overseen by an Arab citizen of the town, Mohammed Tlili, the owner of an Internet café and bookstore.

“Ghriba is also holy and sacred for the Muslims,” Mr. Tlili, who studies restoration and renovation of ancient ruins, said. “It wasn’t just a matter of helping the Jewish community, it was also a moral obligation to help. It’s part of our heritage.”


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