In the run-up to the release of his Adidas collaborative line, Fear of God Athletics, founder and lead designer of Fear of God, Jerry Lorenzo, did a run of interviews with friendly media. Lorenzo — a modern American fashion savant, and son of baseball’s Jerry Manuel — is equally ambitious and immodest, so when asked how big this collaborative line would be, his answer was as big or bigger than Jordan brand. 

As I wrote on the launch of Athletics, Adidas would love that to be so — particularly with the absence of their former star creative, Kanye West — but they’ll be lucky if this line escapes the clearance rack. Though Fear of God mainline is the greatest new American luxury brand, and his Mr. Lorenzo’s accessible Essentials have been hugely popular for years, the same success did not hit Athletics. 

Much of the apparel line seemed to come straight from their far, far cheaper existing Essentials line, and those that weren’t had a bad fit, and subpar material quality. His second collection is soon to launch and though it’s marginally better, it’s fair to say, Jordan brand had a far smoother launch. 

But, it isn’t all for nought; notably, with their signature basketball-cum-lifestyle sneaker, the Fear of God Athletics Basketball One. If Lorenzo wants Fear of God Athletics to take on Jordan Brand, then this is his Jordan 1. It’s a stupid, silly comparison that this shoe will never be able to meet — the Jordan 1 is the most influential, famous sneaker of all time, associated with a legend — but that doesn’t mean they’re not great.

On the contrary; having bought two pairs now, I prefer them to every Jordan 1 released this year. Though, they’d better be, as $250 is a lot of money for a lifestyle sneaker. At least you get a luxurious unboxing experience. It’s a square box, made of thick cardboard, wrapped in tissue paper, like a posh home item from Neiman Marcus; and lifting the lid, you find two reflective foil bags, each containing a cloth-wrapped sneaker. 

The best thing about the One is the look. The toe-box is inspired by David Beckham’s Adidas boots and Predator cleats, the thick crepe sole of the Clark Wallabee, and the overall shape is very familiar for modern basketball shoes, but it comes together for a shoe that looks both classical and wholly unique. In the limited all-cream colour, it has an elegance you rarely find in sneakers, but its references are far afield of ballrooms, with a water-sealed upper reminiscent of ACG mountain climbing sneakers, and a covered toe-box that recalls duck-boots — particularly when done in bold contrast colours. Finally, the black rubber Fear of God tab is a lovely nod to the tags on their coats and jackets; a motif that pays tribute to Martin Margiela.

According to Mr. Lorenzo, his idea was for “a basketball sneaker that you can really go get 50 in and then you can really go to the club in;” and on appearance they pull it off. On feet, in practice, it’s not quite the same story. The narrow toe-box, hard sole, and lack of proper lock-down means they aren’t that functional on the court — particularly compared to other, cheaper Adidas basketball sneakers — nor are they that comfortable for a dance floor. As a Londoner, the water-sealed upper is a benefit, but if you live anywhere dry and warm, these are the wrong shoes for you, and it’s a confusing choice for a brand based out of Los Angeles. 

But then again, all this applies to the Jordan 1. They’re not that comfortable, nor are they that practical, but they have lasted as they’re beautiful, classical, and distinct.  The Fear of God Athletics Basketball One sneakers will never reach their status — and not least because of their dry, forgettable name — but if they get some more elegant colorways, I will probably buy a pair or two more, to join the black/cream and all-cream pairs in my collection.