Review: Maen’s Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin Brings Genta-Inspired Elegance to the Masses

Earlier this year, at Watches & Wonders, Cartier revealed a new tonneau-shaped watch with a Jumping Hour movement. Any other year, this return to a classic early 20th-century complication would have been the highlight of the show, but they had been upstaged. In collaboration with the watch YouTuber, Nico Leonard, the small Swedish watchmaker Maen had also made a watch in this style, and not only did it look better, but it was also significantly less expensive. The green dial version, with the black rubber strap, was a sublime watch.Although this was Maen’s most interesting watch, it reflected their general approach: crafting stylish, well-built watches inspired by classic styles, and making them available at shockingly low prices. Interested in a classic-looking chronograph? Go for their Skymaster 38. A GMT? They have the Hudson. A moon phase? The Lunar Classic. And if you want a Gerald Genta-inspired, octagonal-dial, 1970s sports watch, you have the Manhattan line.Many watches exist in this field, but rather than directly follow the Royal Oak, Maen takes inspiration from Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas 2215, and then applies their own touches. The Manhattan 39 and smaller Manhattan 37 existed — both powered by automatic Sellita movements — and then the manual Manhattan 39 Ultra Thin, but with the new Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin, Maen has perfected the formula.Maen Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin. Courtesy of MaenFor one, as the name suggests, this is a small, slim watch. It measures 37mm across, and just 7.1mm thick. Though it is nice to have the convenience of an automatic watch, I would far rather trade that for the chic profile of this version, powered by an ETA 7001 Elaboré movement. The technical specifications include 10 ATM water resistance, 316L stainless steel construction — in brushed and polished finishes, depending on the surface — and an integrated screw-in bracelet.The other notable change from other members of the Manhattan family is the dial design. Where other Manhattans use a vertical Côtes de Genève striped dial — which is a bit too retro and attention-grabbing for my taste — the 37 Ultra-thin uses a “Tuscan” dial, consisting of a hammered metal surface. It is not a look that you see often, and never at this price, but it is both subtle at a distance and truly interesting on inspection, with the uneven, inconsistent surface reminiscent of the lunar surface. This almost natural appearance juxtaposes beautifully with the clean white lines of the hour and minute markers, and the new six o’clock seconds sub-dial, and where other Manhattans come in bright, punchy hues, the 37 Ultra-Thin instead uses more subtle shades, with deep blue, dark green, dark champagne, and grey versions.Maen Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin. Courtesy of MaenWhere other Manhattans are available beneath the $1,000 mark, the 37 Ultra-Thin joins the 39 Ultra-Thin at the higher price-point of $1,325. That makes it among the more expensive Maen watches, and certainly not a “budget” option anymore, but it boasts a level of quality that you rarely find in watches at three times this price. Some watches look impressive in pictures, but disappoint in person, but this is the opposite: looking at the contrast between that rocky dial, and the brushed aluminum surface, and then the polished chamfered edges, and just how perfectly everything is put together, it is shocking that Maen can make this watch at this price and still have a profit margin. It is luxurious and stylish without being flashy or attention-grabbing, and pays enough tribute to its references while distinguishing itself from countless Genta-inspired alternatives.Maen Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin. Courtesy of Maen

Review: Maen’s Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin Brings Genta-Inspired Elegance to the Masses

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