Review: Nike SB Dunk by Futura Laboratories

In another era, the artist Futura’s latest SB Dunk would have been an unattainable classic. Today, they’re a steal.

Courtesy of Nike
Futura Laboratories x Nike SB Dunk (2024). Courtesy of Nike

There is a certain formula for creating a guaranteed hit sneaker—the kind that fetch unfathomable prices on the second-hand market. To make a hit, you need a famous collaborator with a record of producing beloved sneakers, preferably with ties to both underground and high-end art culture. Enter the former graffiti artist, Futura. Next, you would pair the collaborator with a beloved shoe model, such as a Dunk Low from Nike’s SB skateboarding division. The result can be bold, but it should remain wearable and, of course, well-made.

All of those elements apply to the black and grey Futura SB Dunk — which sells for about $2,500 — and the limited Friends and Family version of his latest SB Dunk, which sells for about $15,000. However, because the “Bleached Aqua” colorway of his latest SB Dunk was relatively widely released, you can buy it for about $250 — only $100 more than retail. It’s arguably the best shoe he has ever designed.

Futura Laboratories x Nike SB Dunk (2024).
Futura Laboratories x Nike SB Dunk (2024). Courtesy of Nike

From a basic perspective, it’s a very wearable shoe, with classic white toe and side panel Dunk coloring, along with blue eyestays and a toe guard. However, Futura has flipped these elements. The blue features a swirl of black, orange, purple, and dark blue hues, inspired by his graffiti. It bears some resemblance to the Unkle Dunks, which were inspired by an album cover Futura designed for the band, but the design is closer to his original graffiti work. His signature appears in white on the lower part of the lateral side, and his “FL” logo is printed on the medial side. The swoosh is a matching aquatic green, and the gradient laces transition beautifully from light blue to dark blue. The detailing continues with a light purple lining on the tongue, a light blue interior, a transparent frosted blue outsole, and a single red eyelet.

Highlights of the Futura Laboratories x Nike SB Dunk (2024).
Highlights of the Futura Laboratories x Nike SB Dunk (2024). Courtesy of Nike

If this were merely a “coloring job” — where a collaborator simply re-colors an existing sneaker — it would still rank highly among the best sneakers of the year. However, the shoe is developed beyond that, with numerous changes made to enhance it for skating. The tongue is heavily padded, the mudguard is raised and double-stitched, folding over the vamp, and the shoe is constructed with a tougher canvas material. This makes it more durable for skating and gives it the appearance of a canvas for painting.

They are a bold, incredible pair of sneakers, and Nike could have limited the release to a few thousand pairs, which would have all resold for thousands of dollars. These shoes are better than many sneakers that sell for such high prices. However, the sneaker market isn’t what it once was, and Nike produced more of them, so they can be purchased for about $250. The price may even drop further.

They aren’t just the best sneakers of the year—they’re a steal.


The New York Sun

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