Champagne for Dinner, Soup for Breakfast

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The New York Sun

New Year’s Eve is the time for popping corks and clinking glasses, but all too often, you have to pay the piper the next morning. Still, there’s no need to spend New Year’s Day with a hangover. Just turn to that wintertime classic: soup.


Soup has long been famous for its restorative properties, and it’s uniquely suited to salve a hangover. The abundance of liquid rehydrates the body, helping to flush the system and relieve headaches caused by dehydration. Vegetables replenish vitamins and often have compounds that fight toxins. A modest amount of fat seems to coat the stomach and help soothe it. Starch provides a welcome dose of energy. And when you need a good dose of comfort, there’s nothing more soothing than a bowl of soup.


Soup is such a popular post-alcohol cure that is seems every culture has its own favored version. Some soups operate on the hair of the dog principle (the Danish make beer soup), while some soups rely on the curative effects of fermented vegetables (like the Russian pickle based solyanka and the Korean kimcheebased haejangguk), and many involve funky organ meats like stomach and tripe (like menudo from Mexico and the Greek patsa).


But not many people are likely to cook (or eat) an exotic new soup when they’re already feeling bad. That’s why I vote for a simple, basic soup that doesn’t intimidate a delicate stomach or a tentative chef. Cabbage, onion, and bacon soup fits the bill – even Aristotle recommended cabbage soup as a hangover cure. Sauteed cabbage and onion, along with a little bacon, form the base of the soup, simmered with chicken broth for an hour until tender and digestible. When nearly done, you can crack an egg into the soup and poach it in the simmering broth, or, for an extra jolt of vitamins, toss in some chopped kale, Swiss chard, or spinach. If you feel up to it, some toast with cheese browned on top is a satisfying partner to the soup.


If you’d rather not cook (understandable under the circumstances), think delivery. There are plenty of soups from local ethnic restaurants that would do equally well, as long as you take care to order from a restaurant you trust. Any soup that’s clear, not too spicy, and, most important, appealing to eat, should help. Simple chicken broth soups like wonton soup, matzo ball soup (it’s not just for colds), and tangy Mexican sopa de tortilla are all likely to soothe and satisfy, and mild fish-broth soups like Japanese miso and Thai tom yom koong (shrimp soup) would also work well, since both tofu and shrimp are easy to digest.


Beats a prairie oyster any day.


Simple Cabbage, Onion, and Bacon Soup


SERVES 2-3


1-2 bacon slices, roughly chopped (optional)
2 tablespoons butter
1 large onion, thinly sliced
1/2 head cabbage, cored and shredded
1/4 cup white wine (optional)
5 cups chicken broth (low-sodium canned broth is fine)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste


1. In a large pot, heat the bacon over medium heat and stir until sizzling and most of the fat has rendered out.


2. Add the butter and onion and cook for 5-7 minutes, until softened but not browned.


3. Add the cabbage and cook,stirring occasionally,until lightly browned, about 15-20 minutes. Add the wine, if using, and simmer until the alcohol evaporates.


4. Pour in the chicken broth and simmer for 50-60 minutes, or until the cabbage is tender. Stir in salt and pepper to taste and serve hot with cheese toasts, if you like.


The New York Sun

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