JAMES BEARD FOUNDATION GALA

It was a lucky break that rain showers followed the James Beard Foundation’s gala at the Wölffer Estate Vineyard in the Hamptons town of Water Mill: No one wanted to put on a bathing suit after the gala’s tasting orgy. Instead, attendees reminisced guilt-free of grilled bluefish from Dante in Cambridge, Mass.; duck breast with pine nut relish from Sette Enoteca e Cucina in Brooklyn; Diver Scallop Tartare from Lever House in New York, and Malaysian-spiced smoked brisket from 5 Ninth in New York. One woman who knew how to pace herself was the president of the James Beard Foundation, Susan Ungaro, who started the job three months ago after a period of unrest at the organization, brought on by the mishandling of financial matters.

Ms. Ungaro doesn’t plan to stop eating. The former editor of the women’s magazine Family Circle is planning a 20-city tasting tour for 2007 to promote the foundation. The tours not only expose people to great chefs, but they also give the chefs a chance to socialize and taste each other’s work.

Thirty restaurants from around the country participated in Saturday’s gala, which honored Thomas Keller of Per Se, Bouchon Bakery, and French Laundry. Mr. Keller was on his second visit to the Hamptons and praised the local organic produce in the region. On the other hand, Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin is a regular on the East End, and was happy to list his favorite Hamptons restaurants: Nick and Toni’s in East Hampton, Red Bar in Southampton, and Beacon in Sag Harbor.

As for the James Beard Foundation, Mr. Ripert said he is excited about Ms. Ungaro’s plans. “I think Beard is back on track. I am delighted because they are the best organization to promote chefs,” he said.

The event included scholarship presentations to three graduating high-school students who are enrolling in culinary school: Taylor Cavanaugh of Ronkonkoma; Ashley Chmela of Lindenhurst, and Jason Ganga of East Hampton.

agordon@nysun.com