The Closest Shave
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

Whether you have a mustache or a clean-shaven babyface, sitting down for a proper hot shave is a luxury that’s not hard to find. Barbershop shaves fell out of fashion years ago, but today they’re back. And at some spots around town, they’re trendier than ever, especially now that day spas are catering to men.
A WOMAN’S TOUCH To give the closest shave at her three-chair barbershop, Bertilda Garcia pulls the hair and goes against the grain. “To do it right, it takes at least 40 minutes, and nobody takes 40 minutes in the shower,” she said. With soft jazz playing in the background and art from local artists hanging on the salmon-colored walls, Chelsea Barber offers 40-minute shaves ($30), haircuts ($25), and beard trims ($10). “It’s about pampering,” Ms. Garcia said. “I tell my customers, ‘Let’s get pretty.'” Chelsea Barber 465 W. 23rd St. at Tenth Ave., downstairs from London Terrace, 212-741-2254.
PERSONAL HISTORY If you look out the window from the Paul Mole barbershop on Lexington Avenue, you will see the spot, to the left of Payard Patisserie, where the original 1913 barbershop stood. It was a place for shaves and haircuts, but also a place for “guys to be guys,” Adrian Wood, owner of Paul Mole, said. Now, more than 90 years later, it still is. The Upper East Side shop is decorated with black-and-white photos, wood-paneled walls, and the approximately 5,000 patron mugs marking 25 years of loyalty. The 30-minute Paul Mole shave ($29) is a recipe of layered pre-shave oil, hot towels, and warm shave soap that leaves the skin “smooth as a baby’s bottom,” he said. “Shaving is all about the preparation; the more you prepare, the better shave you get.” The process massages the skin and often opens up more than just the pores and sinuses. “You hear whole life stories,” Mr. Wood, who has owned the 11-chair shop for 32 years, said. “A barber will tell you you’re a total fool and give you an honest answer.” Currently on offer at Paul Mole are a variety of safety, three-blade, and open straight-edge razors, such as a handcrafted folding English horn-handled Edwin Jagger produced in Sheffield, England ($260). Paul Mole, 1031 Lexington Ave. at 74th Street, 212-535-8461.
A MADISON AVENUE SHAVE Inside this shaving boutique is a two-chair, by-appointment-only barbershop where men can “go in the morning, get a shave and a haircut, and be on their way,” a co-owner of the Art of Shaving, Myriam Zaoui, said. According to Ms. Zaoui, men now are taking better care of themselves. “It is a social phenomenon,” she said. Her barbershop offers a 30-minute traditional ($35) or a 45-minute royal ($55) shave, which includes a jojoba oil, calendula extract, and a rose desert clay mask. The pastel yellow Madison Avenue shop sells gift certificates and features shaving accessories including a gold-plated ($250) and sterling silver razor ($1,000).The Art of Shaving, 373 Madison Ave., between 45th and 46th streets, 212-986-2905. A ROOM OF THEIR OWN At the new second location of Le Petit Spa, located in Turtle Bay, owner Stanley Kohlenberg is courting the guys.
“We have a room that’s dedicated to men. We do hot shaves, men’s facials, barbering, and waxing,” he said.
At Le Petit Spa, the basic shave takes 20 minutes ($35), and the royal shave, which includes a mini-facial, takes 45 minutes ($55). If you have more time, you can get a haircut (by the on-staff barber), shave, and mini-facial ($80).
Mr. Kohlenberg says the advantages of getting a hot shave are both practical and personal. “You get shaved closer, and it grows back slower,” he said. “It’s also a form of relaxation. When you shave in the morning, you shave to get out of the house. But when someone else does it, you’re transported to a time when people did things slower.” Le Petit Spa, 900 Second Ave. at 48th Street, 212-644-9525.