Fall’s Riches

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

In the middle of February, fall seems a long way off. But come October — when summer houses are closing up and the political season is at fever pitch — a sudden chilly wind will trigger the urge to shop for that extra layer or two. And judging by the collections presented last week, there are a few clear trends that will dictate what shows up in stores.

One of the most conceptual themes to emerge was a hunting or active-outdoor theme. Carolina Herrera presented tweedy suits and jaunty equestrian gear with Germanic flair. Drawing inspiration from the American countryside, Ralph Lauren showed wide red plaids and heavy blanket coats. Zang Toi, who is known for couture-level luxury, created several dresses that featured an American Indian motif in deep red and black, in addition to a magnificent floor length white parka with Mongolian lamb collar.

Fur was prevalent, with mink, fox, and chinchilla pieces — and trims — gracing the runway throughout Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. At J. Mendel, the shapes were swingy and fresh. Dennis Basso incorporated several different types of fur onto coats. Zang Toi added fur to the cuff and collar of several slim-cut suits, and Vera Wang incorporated broadtail and fox into her design-centric collection.

The color purple was a go-to shade for several designers. From plum to eggplant, the dark tone creates a rich look, especially when contrasted with gold or used in the many florals that were seen in the fall designs. Michael Kors offered up some lighter pieces in lavender or pale purple, but for the most part, the darker tones were widely popular.

As for silhouettes, the poufs have been deflated. Body-conscious dressing has replaced volume, though the look isn’t exactly skintight. Between the draped robe dresses at Donna Karan and the belted looks at Max Azria, there is a happy medium — and a beautiful fall ahead.


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