Liz Claiborne Predicts an Early Spring

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The New York Sun

The Liz Claiborne spring collection intends to offer instant gratification to all the shoppers who can’t wait to shed their winter garb – even when it’s still winter.

The first batch of lighter, looser styles will arrive in February, but in fabrics, such as a tropical wool and new “shape memory” yarn, that can take cooler temperatures, explained a vice president of design, Richard Ostell, at a preview Friday morning.

“We spring forward with our palette so people can feel they’ll get some mileage out of it,” he said. “But there are no white bottoms until March!”

Back to that memory yarn. It’s being used mostly on jackets to help keep their shape. You’ll be able to tie that perfect bow on your trenchcoat belt at home and expect it to still be in place in an hour, Mr. Ostell said, but a little tug and smoothing out with the hand and the “memory” is forgotten.

Next season is largely defined by colors – a mix of comforting neutrals and striking acid brights – and unique textures – high-sheen nylons with nubby hopsack, the designer noted.

There also seemed to be an emphasis on jackets, ranging from a trapeze to a bomber, and on dresses, which have dominated the runways as New York Fashion Week nears its midpoint. One longer-length shift, in a yellow and gray print, was based on the pattern on Mr. Ostell’s coffee mug. Another had a bit of ruching just below the bustline, mimicking an empire waist but without that pregnant look that often accompanies it.

The print on that dress, abstract swaths of yellow, brown and tan, was called “torn paper.”

“We call them like we see them here,” Mr. Ostell said with a laugh.

Liz Claiborne opted for a presentation, with some looks on models and some on mannequins, instead of a catwalk at the Bryant Park tents, are hosting Vera Wang, J.Mendel, Tracy Reese and others today.


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