For the longest time, it was impossible to tell how much an item from Gap actually cost. You would go on their website, and see a sweatshirt with a $70 list price — and it could be a well-made piece cut from quality cotton, with sturdy construction and little chance of a markdown, or a polyblend rag that wears badly, loses its shape, and permanently smells after a few wears. Such items would be released, discounted after a week, and live in the ‘Last Chance’ tab, overpriced at $19.99. No matter what you bought from Gap, at whatever price, it felt like you were at risk of being ripped off.Gap’s pricing problems reflected a bigger brand problem, as the ’90s staple of youth culture and modern American denim has struggled to compete in the internet age. For a time, it tried to take on Zara, selling preppy fashion at accessible prices. But Zara got away with releasing disposable clothes because their items were cheap runway knockoffs, meant to be worn once. Gap’s line was more plain and more expensive, and by abandoning item quality, they lost their customers’ trust.The company initially tried a return to quality and relevance when it announced a ten-year collaboration with Kanye West. They released several highly praised Yeezy Gap collections, but within two years, the partnership collapsed amid Mr. West’s erratic behavior, mental decline, and collapse into antisemitism.Since then, Gap has tried to rebuild trust by upgrading almost everything around the brand. In February 2024, the company hired Zac Posen, known for “Project Runway,” as executive vice president and creative director of Gap Inc. and chief creative officer of Old Navy. The company has focused on fewer discounts, better store presentation, higher-quality staple items, and high-end collaborations, including a new Victoria Beckham collection built around denim, khaki, tees, button-ups, and fleece. The collection is exactly what they need: stylish, accessible, and seemingly well-made. It has also introduced GapStudio, a more elevated line designed by Posen, which included a shirt-dress worn by Anne Hathaway. Unsurprisingly, it sold out immediately.Gap’s core product, though, is denim. In years past, they had fallen into making cheap, high-stretch blends with poor cuts — but their latest pairs are among the best jeans on the market. Namely, their ’90s Loose Jeans use 13-ounce rigid denim made from 100 percent regenerative cotton, with no stretch, a mid-rise but slightly higher-waisted fit, a buttoned fly, and short, regular, long lengths, across waist sizes from 28 to 42.The cut follows the loose, wide-leg style that has become extremely trendy, but without veering into JNCO territory; and though many brands are making jeans like these, they would look at home in Gap’s archive. My only critique is that the front pockets are slightly smaller than most men’s jeans, meaning the top of your phone sits a little closer to the waistline than I would have liked.This is exactly what Gap should be making: well-priced, well-made clothes that feel true to the brand but also are right for this moment. The only problem is that you still can’t tell how much they should cost. They have a list price of $79.95, but — despite being a new pair — they’re already reduced to $39.00. And you can get another 10 percent off if you purchase through the app.But, no matter how much you pay, you won’t feel ripped off. You’ll just have a great pair of jeans.
