Not Every Shoe Needs To Be a Collaboration
New Balance has led the movement with high-profile collaborations, but their “general release” shoes are often more interesting.
New Balance has been on a tear recently. Once synonymous with styleless dads and comfort over everything, the world has pivoted, leaving behind Nike retros and the same colorways, embracing the New Balance look. In return, New Balance has released some of the most hyped sneakers in the past few years, working with the most exciting designers.
With Salehe Bembury, they’ve made the water-inspired 2002R, the sand-inspired 990V2, and various versions of a whistle-equipped 574. Just this year, he released a two-shoe “Heat Be Hot” 1906R collection, and the silver and gradient yellow-to-red “Lava” colorway resells for four figures. They used Chicago’s Joe Freshgoods to release a range of new silhouettes — from this year’s 1000 to last year’s 9060 and 610 — and his 993 pastel pack was one of my favorite shoes from last year. If you want his 990v4 collection, inspired by the film Belly, it will cost you almost $1,000; and at least double that if you want to buy his famous heart-inspired 992, which is considered one of the greatest modern shoes.
Then, there are shoes from Action Bronson, the chef-turned-rapper-turned-designer. He introduced the 990v6, which I continually rave about, and his collaborations have been highly hyped.
But — with the exception of a few truly extraordinary pairs like the 992 — most of these are not far beyond, or even as good as, the standard pairs, which you can find on sale.
I want to draw particular attention to the new 1906A. It wasn’t made in collaboration with a designer, isn’t limited, and isn’t talked about, but it’s far more creative and interesting than most of the previously mentioned shoes. It is a take on one of the best-selling shoes of the summer, the mesh-heavy 1906R, but intentionally torn down a bit. Panels overhang each other, laces hang off the side, going through the New Balance logo, and the attention to detail is incredible. Though the grey and black colorways are rather standard, I expect more ambitious and interesting styles in the months to come.
Despite this, nobody is talking about them, and they will probably go on sale. Why? In part, it’s because the deconstructed style has been done before — famously with Virgil Abloh’s Nike collaborations or with New Balance’s own famous “Protection Pack” — so these aren’t a new idea. That hasn’t stopped collaborations from being hyped up, even when there’s no real story behind them. The answer to this disparity is media-driven: If we can put a face and voice to a collaboration, it seems more valuable and interesting, even if the shoe itself is less so. But if you just want a cool shoe, that’s not true.
My advice? Choose your size on Packer Shoes, Kith, or the New Balance website, and browse through the on-sale shoes. I don’t doubt you’ll find something compelling — and it won’t require forking over a premium to a reseller.