If you’re just looking for a pair of shoes, Y-3 doesn’t seem to make a lot of sense. But then again, Y-3 isn’t really like any other shoe line. A collaboration sub-brand between the legendary Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto and “the brand with the three stripes”—hence the name—Y-3 shoes aren’t just existing Adidas shoes with a different color combination like most collaborative sneakers. Given that Yohji Yamamoto is famously the master of black, that’s probably for the best. Instead, Y-3 shoes use their own unique molds, outsoles, uppers, and materials, and often have little to do with an existing Adidas shoe even if they share the same title. The high price tag for Y-3 models isn’t just a luxury designer tax; for a completely original shoe with complex construction made in limited numbers, that’s the only way you can price it. And probably Y-3 at its best is seen in their 2024 profile, the $450 S-Gendo Run.

The core of the shoe is its midsole design, which—to start with the most visually striking element—has an enormous gap in it. This isn’t the small cutouts on an On shoe or the filled gaps of Nike Air; it’s more like the arch of a heel closed up by the flat sole of a sneaker, meaning that the middle of the midsole is this oval gap. Though this is extremely visually striking, particularly up close, it comes as much from technical function as aesthetics. Development started in 2019, and this gap serves as a buffer between the thick Lightstrike foam cushioning of the rear, the plinth-style underfoot Pebax polymer plate, and the thinner Lightstrike pad under your toes. This bridging element is made using Pebax polymer technology like the most advanced running foams, and this combination means that in motion your heel is easily supported on landing each foot, but the shoe naturally rolls forward, pushing you into the next step.

This is extremely useful for jogging, and despite its designer focus, it works well as the most beautiful training shoes you’ve ever used. But all of the technical benefits that serve it for running also work perfectly for a stylish, comfortable summer shoe; and a pair so good-looking they can be worn everywhere. Though not classically as comfortable as the New Balance 990v6 and with a far less stable underfoot feel than a trail-inspired shoe like the Salomon XT, the combination of rocker motion underfoot, light upper, and wide forefoot shape makes for a very easy, comfortable walking experience. The super-breathable, lightweight upper, made of a suede-reinforced, toughened mesh, makes it among the best sneakers in my collection for hot summer weather; and because it’s inspired by the look of classic runners but offered in either black or white, it has a timeless style that makes it easy to wear in an office.

Is it worth the money? As I say, if you’re looking for sheer comfort and value for money, this would never be your avenue. But it’s hard for me to find another shoe that better shows why Y-3 is so special and how great their sneakers can be. It’s technically advanced and well-suited for all your running needs, but subtle in its style and comfortable in everyday use. Most importantly, there’s an underappreciated value in attention to detail in design. From the flip-down heel pull to the divided outsole—half plain, half with a beautiful engraving along it—to Yohji Yamamoto’s signature on the side, they feel special with every wear. And among a 100-shoe strong collection, they’re one of my very favorites.