Blass Is Back

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

Pretty party frocks ruled the runways on Tuesday morning. At Bill Blass, Michael Vollbracht sent out his most sophisticated collection yet. Cotton sundresses were charming in full balloon skirt shapes and swing coats to match. A cropped military jacket was paired with a pink silk skirt, one of the more adventurous looks. Evening wear sparkled with a sense of above-it-all elegance. A stunning white halter dress was printed with flowers that had the look of Mr. Vollbracht’s oil paintings. A mauve empire-waist gown was studded with bursts of gold. A white cotton evening suit – made of fabric embossed with chart-like designs – was cut sharp. The collection’s reigning palette was neutral and muted, but with cuts so appealing that women in these dresses can expect to turn heads.


Monique Lhuillier stuck to beautiful, safe ground with solid colors for evening wear. Pink, midnight blue, lavender, and metallics were used for gowns – several with flowing ties, others with draped fabric. Sparkling bands on halter gowns gave the looks added shimmer; one dress in light green lace was striking for its high neck. Basic black made a showing, too, most notably with a full skirt topped with a black and white floral bustier.


But into each season some mistakes must fall. BCBG Max Azria came to the tents with a collection destined for days of poolside lounging – in muu-muus. This collection spoke of too much Boho too late. Colors were in the pastel range – lilac, mint, and plum – and shapes were pouffy and billowing. But all was not lost. Several pieces – a cropped white leather cape, a block-printed twill coat, and blouses with laid-back California style – added casual chic to the earthgirl vibe.


Alvin Valley veered off course with a collection of too-glam gowns and sheer pieces. Gold has been very much in fashion lately, but there is a certain kind of gaudy lame that should be left to grandmothers on a spree in Vegas. Several shirts were see-through, and when they weren’t, the pants were. A few of the evening ensembles would make excellent red carpet arrivals, especially for those in a Spanish mood. Red and black dominated the evening looks; skirts were long and full, topped with sheer ruffled shirts. But a stand-up, oversize ruffle marred the shape of several pieces by skewing the proportions. The best look of the show, a tight tuxedo and a gold bra, was a reminder of Mr. Valley’s best asset: an exquisite eye for line.


The New York Sun

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