Dreaming In Topaz, Selling at Bendel’s
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

Uyen-Uyen Tong has been designing jewelry for just two years, but within that time, she has created a look fresh enough to land her a coveted trunk show at Henri Bendel. Ms. Tong and her collection will be at Bendel’s this week – from Thursday to Saturday – thanks to her successful showing at the legendary “open see,” a casting call of sorts during which any up-and-coming designer can present his or her work to the boutique’s team of buyers. Winners are awarded a trunk show that can launch a career, as it did for Todd Oldham and Anna Sui. If the collection sells well, Bendel’s may end up stocking her pieces regularly.
Though the Los Angeles-based Ms. Tong, 32, has no formal design training, what she does have is a signature style and a budding celebrity following that includes Hilary Swank, Halle Berry, and Angela Bassett. Her fall collection is a mix of elegance, luxury, and bohemian chic inspired by the hazy moment that comes “just before you wake up from a dream,” she said.
The look is romantic, with asymmetrical shapes, dramatic lengths, and both precious and semiprecious stones. Pieces in the collection ($168 to $598) include a pair of gold-filled tassel earrings finished with London blue topaz ($298) and a matching blue necklace ($550), sold separately, as well as a pair of triple-hoop black diamond 14K gold earrings ($598).
At 2 years old, Ms. Tong left Vietnam with her parents and was raised in the relaxed, beach-centered lifestyle of Southern California. As she describes it, her pieces have an element of drama – garnered from her time working in a defense attorney’s office – and harmony, which she gained from her studies at the Yamaha School of Music.
Those experiences, though, did not prepare her for the cutthroat competition of a Bendel’s open see. The day before the April event, the nervous designer flew into New York and jumped right in.
“I woke up at 5 a.m., got dressed, and got in line,” she said. “I was there at 7 a.m. and there were already 400 people. The line wrapped around in front of Harry Winston’s.”
The judging was swift, but the wait was arduous. The aspiring designers – showing everything from scarves to hats to handbags to jewelry – made their way down the staircase to the basement of the store, hoping to win one of the handful of slots. During Ms. Tong’s presentation, she was told on the spot that she’d be welcome to come back for an opportunity to sell at the shop. With that victory in hand, she’s feeling lucky that her New York debut will be at Bendel’s. “Their reputation for selecting innovative designers, season after season, is legendary,” she said.
When Ms. Tong meets the public during her three-day trunk show in Midtown, she’ll bring along her sketchbook, which includes an inspirational quote: “You must have one grand passion.” For this designer, that passion lies in black diamonds, pink pearls, and blue topaz.
From August 18 to 20,Uyen-Uyen Designs will be available at Henri Bendel (712 Fifth Ave., 212-247-1100). Also available at www.uyenuyendesigns.com.