Eyes For Detail
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
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Exquisite details on fine fabrics took center stage at Olympus Fashion Week yesterday with looks by Vera Wang, J. Mendel, and Wunderkind by Wolfgang Joop.
Ms. Wang’s collection showed a strong evolution in her style toward an edgier, deconstructed look. Forget the simple, classic shapes of her wedding dresses; with these day and evening looks, she let her creativity run into rich territory. A black silk faille bustier was so crumpled and rough it had a punk edge, though worn with a swingy silk skirt. An emerald-green jacket in satin looked crazy in an upside-down shape – and yet, quite beautiful. These free spirited looks were contrasted by sharp pieces such as a tight lavender jacket pleating on the arms. Dresses had a charming quality, with wide widths and sweet necklines.
The collection at J. Mendel started off with unfinished (but refined) fabrics in white and gold for skirt suits and jackets. Raising seams here, too, lessened the prim and proper tone. Prominent seams were also featured on a beautiful cream trench coat in silk faille. Fur was in no short supply. A pink mink bolero had a soft, pretty look, as did a shrunken oatmeal-colored mink vest. J. Mendel continued the trend toward high necks with a lilac chiffon dress, but there was plenty of skin shown on the many corset dresses.
Wolfgang Joop created an elegant, voluminous look on several skirts and sleeves. Fabric billowed behind the models as they walked. The square edges of one white linen dress had the look of a bedsheet. Several dresses had so much fabric below the waist they called to mind sheer curtains. Whites and neutrals dominated, but a few long dresses were made from a colorful floral print on white silk chiffon. Lacy shirts complemented sharp menswear-inspired suits, for a collection that revolved around a romantic look.