A Feathered Flair
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

Carolina Herrera’s fall 2008 collection was made for winter walks through forest glens (or through Central Park) followed by sumptuous dinners under the vaulted ceilings of Austrian chalets (or at Daniel). Inspired by the countryside, Ms. Herrera turned out both beautiful day-wear — with noble tweeds, thick wools, and equestrian inspiration — and glamorous evening looks that captured the idea of the open air.
Feathers played a dramatic role in translating the outdoor concept into looks that could be red-carpet stunners. Used on the necklines to accent a flowing gown, or on the side of a skirt to give dimension to a rosette, the long feathers lent an artistic air of exaggeration. Hunting-style hats by Albertus Swanepoel were made artistic with feathers that stretched out several feet behind the models. When removed for dressing in real life, the garments and hats would stand strong on their own. In a color palette that ranged from earthy shades of rust and moss green to a luscious sky blue, the collection offered everything from suits to riding pants to evening gowns — all with a strong thematic element that made for a stellar show. As he did last season, Oscar de la Renta brought in live music to accompany his show. This year it was the talented vocalist Regina Spektor, who sang and played the piano as models walked a circular runway at 583 Park Avenue. As for the clothes, Mr. de la Renta hit a high note with his combination of sparkle, shine, and sophistication. A series of silk taffeta shirts featured short sleeves, their layers cupping the shoulder and their ruffles running down the front à la a man’s tuxedo shirt. Paired with long, sweeping skirts or slim pants, these shirts made for a richly textured and lusciously detailed look. Fitted sweaters and cropped shearling vests paired with short, swinging skirts gave the collection a youthful feel.
Several evening gowns looked ready for the upcoming awards season. Chances are pretty good that you’ll see a black spaghetti strap gown with organza gold leaf embroidered on the full skirt come down the red carpet. One green floral gown — also featuring gold embroidery at the hem — looked inspired by Gustav Klimt. The show closed on a wave of Champagne tulle: a gown embroidered with gold and worn with a bronze shearling vest. No matter what the economy may look like in fall 2008, this collection is betting on luxury: Embellishments, metallic accents, and elegance will always be with Oscar — and with us.
Peter Som used some alluring and unexpected fabrics for a collection that emphasized glamorous day looks. Several silk blouses were made from a beautiful lily green print. Wide plaids were draped into alluring dresses. Furs included a shaggy black goat vest, a zebra-and-fox coat, and a thin alpaca mantle. The contrast of the light silks and heavy furs kept the mix interesting, although the collection leaned toward a darker, somewhat moody feel.