A Lively Glimpse Of Spring

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The New York Sun

The designers first out of the gate for Olympus Fashion Week offered up contrasting messages for spring 2007. High necklines on buttoned-up shirts and high waists on pants produced a mood of tailored chic, but at the same time, flowing, easy looks suggested a move toward a more casual elegance.

Yigal Azrouel traveled in both directions — and added sex appeal into the mix. Shift dresses and baby doll dresses were loose and comfortable looking, but prim at the neckline. In neutral colors and textured fabrics, these short dresses whisper a message of sexuality that’s soft and relaxed. And it’s a message that makes plunging necklines and tight silhouettes look passé.

Mr. Azrouel deftly translated that same idea into the urban uniform of jeans and cotton tops. Tight, skinny jeans were topped with thin T-shirts that draped and slouched on the body softly. A neatly tailored jacket topped one T-shirt-and-jeans combination; from under the short jacket, the flowing shirts peeked out, giving the outfit a sense of the deliberately haphazard.

At BCBG, the livin’ was easy. This spring collection seemed destined for parties in outdoor spaces with fabulous views and cool breezes. The dominant silhouettes were loose and flowing, yet alluring in that they hinted at the body underneath. “I think there’s a new way of being sexy,” the creative director of BCBG, Lubov Azria, said.

She delivered on that sentiment. Dresses with long cape-like sides and geometric embroidered eyelet were head-turners. A loose shift dress in orange silk came with large embroidered detail that combined an ethnic motif with an urban shape. One winning look that stood out was a short silk and satin dress in a pistachio color with a V-neck and loose cap sleeves; it was a throwback to the ’70s, but with a pretty sensibility. Though dresses dominated, the collection included white high-waisted pants that looked chic when paired with sheer, loose tops. Though the light green and orange colors stood out, the overall collection moved gracefully from whites and creams to rose to brighter hues.

Ashleigh Verrier, whose collection was shown in the UPS Hub, delivered a broad range of styles. Her approach swung between straightforward and somewhat overly decorated, but all of it had a lively sense of personality.

In the straightforward category were adorable floral prints on navy blue or orange backgrounds. Both prints were used for dresses in classic shapes. One evening dress was gorgeous in light blue chiffon trimmed with Swarovski crystals; if not for the short hemline, it would look like the ultimate Oscars dress. Another short shift dress had a red-carpet look with a white background and navy blue feathers and sequins tastefully applied.

Several looks had a perky sense of fun. A cropped jacket in red seersucker came with three watch-fob chains on the pockets. Baby doll dresses with cap sleeves and high-neck blouses with small bows had a sense of carefree sophistication.

Ms. Verrier seemed to have had some fun with seams and gathers, but sometimes she went a little too far. One tan pencil skirt came with unnecessary and most assuredly unflattering horizontal pleats that opened onto navy blue fabric. Still, Ms. Verrier’s collection will appeal to girls with a sense of whimsy and delight in details.


The New York Sun

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