Off-Off Bryant

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The New York Sun

Freewill Fashion and GenART showed vintage with a twist this weekend. While one designer used vintage to save the planet, another used it as inspiration for an entire collection.


Freewill Fashion might be described as a fashion movement rather than a fashion line. The organization, spearheaded by Monkey Queen and Riccardo Bonechi, promotes the use of vintage clothing and accessories – renewable resources – as an environment-saving measure.


At Freewill’s show on Wednesday, its first, a 1940s Jitterbug multicolored circle skirt was paired with a simple white tee, and a 19th-century black sundress was made modern with lace-up boots. The show was theatrical, with models using accessories such as luggage, cameras, and even dogs to create moods. It took place at St. Marks Church in the East Village, where the setting was white and the lighting was bright and clean.


While Freewill chose a minimalist backdrop for its show, the designers of GenART showcased their lines at the Roosevelt Hotel in a room adorned with balconies and crystal chandeliers.


H. Fredriksson paid attention to collars – all prominent – and material. A cream wool knit bat-wing sweater was paired with a loose gold-printed silk circle skirt. Mel En Stel used layers and lots of wool, including a charcoal gray wool sweater-knit dress with an oversize collar and belt.


The highlight of the show was the third and last collection to hit the runway, Wyeth by Todd Magill. Mr. Magill said he looked to artist Egon Schiele for his color palette, which was rich in organic colors such as burnt sienna and earthy green. A purple twill coatdress with two front pockets and a tie in back caught the crowd’s attention. But a black silk georgette dress with lace insets stole the show.


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