On the Runway, Vacuums and Violins

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

PARIS — For those obsessed with design, the Issey Miyake show yesterday was a thrill. Creative director Dai Fujiwara collaborated with the British engineer James Dyson, who invented the eponymous vacuum cleaner, to create a collection inspired by wind.

Sound like hot air? There’s more to it than just the theme.

Mr. Fujiwara’s interest was based on the power and shape of the cyclone, which is integral to Dyson technology. The collection addressed the central theme in six groupings — Dune, Breeze, Cyclone, Sail & Weather Forecast, Wind from China, and Heaven’s Breath — that varied widely, but stayed true to the Issey Miyake visual vocabulary of intrepid, highly textured designs. Key here was the Cyclone group, in which mechanical parts and pieces from Dyson vacuum cleaners were used in the garments. A jacket of gray fabric — adorned with printed instructions and Dyson logos — was belted with a large, black gear from the machine, used as a buckle. On a short dress, tubes served as decorations, looping from the back of the dress to the front of the shoulders. Additional pieces in this series were strewn with braided tangles of fabric, which looked very much like strands of a rug that had been mangled by a vacuum (presumably, not a Dyson).

The Dune portion included dresses that bounced with the house’s signature pleating in perfect diamond shapes. Voluminous jackets made of the thinnest yellow and green nylon wrapped the models in the Heaven’s Breath group. The Wind From China section was partially in homage to the host of the upcoming Olympic games: Crinkled pants were made from pink fabric printed with a woman holding a peony, a symbol of the nation.

As with most collections from Issey Miyake, the majority of pieces were designed for people who don’t mind stopping traffic. There were, however, a few pieces that might cause only minor collisions, among them a series of woven knit dresses with yarns dangling down, as well as pleated tops and bottoms in bright shades of blue and yellow.

Mr. Dyson designed the set for the show: Six wide tubes of bright yellow plastic, looking like faceless Chinese dragons, snaked overhead, blowing air onto the models, who emerged from a tunnel formed from the same yellow plastic. At times the large yellow tubes, which were manipulated by hidden puppeteers, were made to look as if they were watching the models walk by.

Creative energy also hit high notes yesterday afternoon at the Viktor & Rolf show. The spring collection — all pinks and whites, with touches of black — set out the dramatic ideal of living larger than life. Shapes were exaggerated here: Wide-leg pants were paired with shirts that encircled the waist like a large bell. Pink dresses and shirts were printed with large diamond shapes that looked like isolated argyle. Tassles made from fuzzy black spheres, like a chic version of fuzzy dice, hung from waistlines and necklines.

While there were moments of silky, drawstring dressing that harkened back to the 1980s, a graphic theme of violins was more prevalent. Printed violins trimmed the hem of dresses, and toy violins were pinned on a few looks. The most successful, however, was a black strapless gown a homage to Man Ray: two curved s-shapes in white were attached to the front of the dress. For the final look, designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren sent out a visual treat: a long pink quilted gown was topped in a giant ruffle at the neck, inside of which was a reddish pink violin. What’s fascinating about this duo is that they have no shortage of ability to make stunning, pretty clothes, but they push past it — with ebullient visual wit. A focused, strong collection was shown yesterday by the designer Lutz, at the Ritz Hotel. Streetwise and chic, this German label has a bit of New York edge. Flattering dresses had layers of pleats at the halter or at the waist.Twisted straps made simple dresses more interesting, and deconstructed dinner jackets took things into flights of fancy. Layering showed up in more ways than one. Several pieces came with an overlay of a sheer fabric that was gathered up at one side and circled the chest with a narrow elastic band — as if the model had thrown a sheer skirt over her blue satin sheath dress. Layers of sheer black seersucker fabric peeked out from under other dresses, too. Shown with black socks and black strap high heels, this collection kept the spirit of downtown alive and well.


The New York Sun

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