Food & Drink
This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.
ARTS+ SELECTS What Cafe Cluny restaurant serves the most of, at the moment at least, is buzz. Still, bistro stalwarts like duck confit and braised beef know their job and do it well. Two confited legs of duck ($23) have buttery, crisped skin enclosing dark, savory meat. If their reduction is too salty, that just adds to the hearty, flavorcrammed mood; roasted Brussels sprouts on the plate lend a fresh crunch without compromising the dish’s vigor. The question for Cluny is whether it can modulate its opening buzz into enduring iconicity, and it seems to have what it takes.
— Paul Adams
Cafe Cluny (284 W. 12th St. at West 4th Street, 212-255-6900).
