LUNCHTIME SURPRISE

Nicki Jakupi, the owner of Bistro Le Steak on the Upper East Side, has moved to Midtown with Bistro Desaret (227 E. 56th St., between Second and Third avenues, 212-207-8777), which quietly made its debut last week. Unlike Le Steak, the new 150-seat restaurant is open for lunch and has more seafood items to go with the steak and traditional French bistro fare, including escargots and frog legs. Like its sister restaurant, it also has an array of steaks, and several burgers, which might help it compete for lunch service with the fairly new Johnny Rockets down the street (930 Third Ave. at 56th Street, 212-813-0003). But Johnny Rockets also has milk shakes.

GRAY AFTERNOONS

Café Gray (Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, Broadway at 60th Street, 3rd floor, 212-823-6338) reopened yesterday for lunch, from noon to 2:15 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday. On offer is a $38 two-course meal. An additional course can be added for $12.

First courses at the moment include sweet corn ravioli with summer truffle emulsion, and risotto with mushroom fricassee. Among second courses are a mini-foie gras meatloaf with kecap manis, a Malay sweet soy sauce, as well as a parsley-lentil salad, and skate schnitzel with brown butter.

SHERRY SERVICE

John Fraser, the former chef of Compass, is hoping to open a new 70-seat restaurant, to be named Dovetail (103 W. 77th St. at Columbus Avenue), next month. One of the features will be an extensive sherry service developed by beverage director James Endicott, who plans to offer at least 25 varieties by the glass, some of them paired with $2 canapés.

TOP CHEFS

Project by Project, which serves Asian-American nonprofit organizations, is having its annual tasting benefit, Plate by Plate, at Skylight Studios (275 Hudson St. at Dominick Street, 212-367-3730) this Friday. An anchor for SportsNet New York, Kenny Choi, and a runner-up in the television show “The Apprentice,” James Sun, will be co-masters of ceremonies. The executive chef of the French Culinary Institute and a consultant for the Bravo television show, “Top Chef,” Lee Anne Wong, will be the national toastmaster. The local network NY1’s Sandra Endo will be master of ceremonies for the VIP reception.

Food from Morimoto, Fleur de Sel, Gilt, Public, Thalassa, En, Riingo, Aquavit, Oceana, Peacock Alley, and Matsuri will be featured. General admission, from 7–10 p.m., is $150. VIP tickets, which admit guests at 6 p.m., are $250.

Mr. Thorn is food editor of Nation’s Restaurant News. He maintains nrnfoodwriter.blogspot.com.