Oscar’s Winning Performance

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The New York Sun

Oscar de la Renta has proved beyond a doubt why he’s enjoying a major moment. The evidence is not in Sarah Jessica Parker’s adoration. It’s not that Serena and Venus Williams were in the front row at yesterday’s show, just a few seats down from Eva Longoria. It’s that so many pieces in the designer’s spring 2006 collection could look divine on any of them – or, for that matter, any woman with a beating heart.


Look after look in this collection was just right, whether for day or evening. A series of beige and brown linen suits came with jackets in several shapes: boxy and wide at the waist, slim and tailored, or long and lean. But suits also showed up in brighter colors, and if Oscar says yellow brocade is okay for a suit, then okay it is. His use of color was right on target. A pistachio green taffeta gown with a lovely layer of sheer tulle, followed by a printed silk dress with bright green flowers, were particularly notable.


And yet among the stunning tailored looks – like a taupe dinner suit with a wide ruffle at the waist and a front flair on the pencil skirt – Mr. de la Renta threw in a peasant skirt and top in printed chiffon that were just as wearable. The hands-down winner of the collection was a taupe chiffon column dress topped with a jacket covered with tan and black-and-white feathers.


Carolina Herrera, too, showed a widely varied collection that displayed her subtle sense of color and whimsy. The palette was full of pale blues, dark browns, and whites, punctuated by a fabric with giant polka dots and a charming print of red radishes on a brown background. Though the silhouettes varied, the theme throughout was womanly and confident. The white shirts that Ms. Herrera has come to be associated with were present, this year with thin ties on the sleeves, sometimes topped with sporty scoop-neck sweater vests. For evening, a white chiffon gown with black-and-brown polka dots had an air of fun, as did a gorgeous white gown topped with an embroidered dark brown bolero jacket.


Polka dots made a strong showing at Cynthia Steffe and Y & Kei, too. Ms. Steffe’s collection was strongest with her pretty dotted dresses and separates, but less compelling was a series of colorful pop art pieces. Designers Hanii Yoon and Gene Kang, the husband-and-wife team that makes up Y & Kei, showed a printed dress with polka dots and a tassel motif (black on white) that was especially noteworthy. Together, they have a way of crafting allure without being over the top. They kept up the trend toward whites and muted colors with dark contrasting colors thrown in. Throughout the collection were pieces featuring pleated chiffon with pretty swirls or sunbursts pressed into the fabric, which made for a delicate touch.


Goddess dresses were in no short supply at Tuleh, by designer Bryan Bradley. The strapless numbers came trailing down the runway with yards of fabric billowing after them. While a train on a dress is swishy, one wonders how the many socialites in attendance would handle these stunners come gala time. The collection started off with pale grays and metallics, hitting a high note with a grey sequined floral dress. But things quickly gave way to color: One dress featured patches of bright blue and mustard yellow from collar to hem. Another looked artistically splotchy, like a pastel Jackson Pollock painting. A beautiful coat with a black-on-white twig print kept up an artsy look, but another trench in white leather was simply sexy.


The New York Sun

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