Runway Knows No Fear

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Recession? Does that come with a special order of mink jackets accented by handmade ribbon inserts trimmed with feathered coyote fur?

The financial talking heads can fear all they want, but yesterday, signs of spending were there for the taking. Furrier Dennis Basso filled his runway with all manner of pelts, from African broadtail to alligator vests trimmed with Russian sable. And around the same time, another sign of global economic health was wrapping up: In London, Sotheby’s finished its sale of Impressionist and Modern art with eight of the top 10 lots selling for more than their high estimates — and Franz Marc’s “Grazing Horses III” going for $24 million. If anything, the art market suggests that designers such as Mr. Basso are positioned perfectly. He’ll have winners with his chinchilla coats — in multiple shades that make for a natural ombre pattern — and evening wear dominated by black chiffon gowns with embroidery.

Designer Gilles Mendel, too, can rest his head on shoulders warmed by his black Mongolian lamb shrugs. His 2008 J. Mendel collection is made for carefree nights of high style — insulated from economic downturns. A short dress of chestnut-color chinchilla and a deep purple broadtail coat should keep things warm. Meanwhile, his evening wear designs — gowns made of hand-pleated abstract floral prints or black chiffon with jet bead trim — would bring the heat. Though the collection used darker shades and a deep palette, it struck a bold note for gorgeousness. But while there may always be a market for furs and artwork, what’s the rest of the fashion market to do? For an American brand like Tibi, the answer is to keep turning out flattering dresses that give consumers a reason to spend. Designer Amy Smilovic’s fall collection featured her signature strong prints in tunics and short dresses. Loose, flowing blouses and dresses came with V-necks and scarf ties at the neck. Her use of color ranged from bright orange to modest, dark tweed for three-piece suits. Also shown on the runway was the result of Tibi’s collaboration with the legwear brand Hue. Dark-gray and patterned leggings gave the looks a clear autumnal edge.

Designer Max Azria’s eponymous label looked slightly less adventurous than in past seasons. Several looks emphasized transparency to the extent that they offered glimpses at lingerie underneath and brought the corset to the outside. Both of these ideas are not new to the runways. That said, the collection includes racks of floaty dresses that can be worn to stunning effect — with the slips underneath — and others made of sturdy fur, wool, and knit materials. The corsets themselves were more like extensions of the wide belts that were worn over them. And if anything in this collection points to an economy that’s burbling strongly, it’s the cashmere sweatpants. One of the last looks — a black strapless dress with sweetheart neckline, wide belt, and gold beading — was bound to be seen again soon on one of the many celebrities in attendance.

Collections such as Thakoon might serve the economic forecasters in a different way: It takes a strong and varied market to support the risk-takers. Designer Thakoon Panichgul has the lock on a certain blend of granny-sexy chic.

His fall collection combined suits that had a boxy cut with floral print pieces and plaids. It seemed to suggest that he’s having a bit of fun: One floral dress looked every bit the housecoat, yet on skirts and dresses, the print was a stunner. Wide plaids and fabrics with multiple linear color patterns were used to strong effect. A navy-blue knit vest and a sparkly evening dress with a sheer fabric on the shoulders also stood out.


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