MICHAEL KORS Don’t banish your black just yet. While this season has been full of jewel tones and gilt edges, Michael Kors isn’t afraid of keeping it simple with black, white, bright red, and cobalt blue. Presented against a soundtrack of power vocals by Gwen Stefani and Madonna, the collection seemed targeted to ladies and gents with a glamorous rock edge.

And for such major personalities, fur is a must. Long fur coats were worn over power suits and beaded dresses. A short vest in black fox with silver accents looked drop-dead sexy over a merino pullover and a jersey skirt. The long furs lent an air of old-school Hollywood to the runway.

Mr. Kors balanced grays and charcoal with shades of tan and camel. A tight, short military jacket was worn over a black pullover and a flared gray flannel skirt. Other skirts were full and beaded, such as the tweed ombre skirt in black and white, adorned with feathers and shown with a simple black pullover (so Sharon Stone). Another sparkly skirt with crystals and feathers was paired with a heather cashmere pullover.

The dressed-up casual looks were followed by straight-up evening wear, including a gown of the same crystal-and-feather mix and a black gown with wide rivulets of crystal and tulle. From the delicate to the sporty, Mr. Kors seemed to focus on wearable clothes for urban warriors. Though some of the looks seemed easily translatable into his lower-end line, Michael, his glamorous take on style kept the Michael Kors label hot and fresh.

LELA ROSE Lela Rose balanced femininity and a serious design sensibility in her new collection. Several high-neck ruffled wool jackets kept a sense of frivolity and chic in harmony. A strong olive wool coat-dress came with a delicate trim of wide lace at the bottom. The decorative fabric was more prominent in a gorgeous strapless gown of gold lace over aquamarine silk, as well as in a bustier of the same materials shown with a dark green wool skirt.

The strongest look in the collection – and, in fact, a look that seemed to define the direction of fashion for fall – was a metallic jacquard full skirt topped with a reddish wool jacket that was cinched with a leather belt.

For evening, a dress of tiered ribbon was striking, especially with its jeweled neckline. There were two surprising pieces that suggested a more creative, somewhat new direction for a label that typically stays in safe waters. A strapless cream silk dress with at least 20 layers of silk organza was nearly a pouf skirt, but kept to more of an oval, egg shape. And the words “I used to be Snow White…But I drifted” were repeated in tiny letters on a short, white strapless dress – with little pieces of thread trailing off the word “drifted.”

NANETTE LEPORE There were style influences from the looks of gypsies, Heidi, and Russian princesses all blended into the Nanette Lepore show. At times, it seemed the collection was destined for a Renaissance-theme wedding or a revival of “The Sound of Music.” But when the costume-y feel abated, we were left with pretty pieces in rich colors. A sparkly blue vest was paired with a printed chiffon blouse that looked just right for workaday women. Another silk printed blouse – cream with large teardrop shapes – was shown with a wool tweed skirt. A short-sleeve wool jacket was charmingly paired with a skirt of embellished velvet. Nanette Lepore kept up the trend toward deep jewel tones, embellishment, and whimsy, while bringing it in a sweet, young, yet strong direction.

– Pia Catton

MARC BY MARC JACOBS When dark wool coats, knitted caps, and striped sweaters showed up on Marc Jacobs’s signature collection runway Monday night, one could sense he was about to revisit a favorite theme: grunge.

Sure enough, on Tuesday, at the presentation of Mr. Jacobs’s bridge label, Marc by Marc Jacobs, plaid shirts, ripped tights, and oversize grandpa sweaters were in abundance. But there was also a punk-rock 1980s influence that recalled Ally Sheedy’s character in “The Breakfast Club.” This youthful label is all about mixing and matching, and this fall, the kids will pile on layers of checkered, striped, and floral leggings, and T-shirts and dresses topped off with a fluffy down jacket or oversize trench coat held together with a belt.

Colors were cool and dark: plum, indigo, bottle green, and occasional splashes of fuchsia dominated. Mr. Jacobs is apparently in the mood for modesty: The empire-waist dresses, baggy suspender jeans, and below-the-knee Aline skirts revealed no curves or flesh. And while the clothes were hip and nonchalantly chic, they lacked that extra detail and sense of casual luxury that normally sets the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection apart from other junior labels. However, if one looked past the layers of T-shirts and cardigans, it was possible to spot a few fresh and delicate sundresses in bright floral prints that we predict will be the bestsellers of this somewhat plain collection.

ROLAND MOURET While many designers have favored childlike, off-the-body silhouettes this season, Roland Mouret celebrated the female form in his sophisticated and timeless collection. The structured and super-svelte garments were definitely sexy – but Mr. Mouret’s take on sensuality appeals both to the body and the mind. His intelligent draping and complicated patternmaking made the Band-Aid tight skirts and dresses look more ladylike than sex-kittenish.

The program notes mentioned Marcel Carne’s classic 1938 film “Hotel du Nord” as an inspiration, and there were definite traces of old-fashioned Parisian elegance in the square necklines, high waisted tweed pants, and cropped and swingy peacoats. Mr. Mouret is famous for his draping skills, and he put them to good use in exquisite necklines and sleeves that were folded in origami-like squares and subtle bustles on the slim skirts. There were also many beautifully cut coats and jackets that had just the right amount of skewed seams and symmetrical cutouts to be both polished and innovative. And though one must admit that these garments are not for chasing down the bus on a Monday morning, they would be absolute perfection for sipping wine on a misty night by the Canal St. Martin.

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ After a few days of shuttling back and forth between fashion shows, one’s eyes tend to get slightly weary from the wild variety of patterns and shapes parading down the runways. Narciso Rodriguez’s supremely logical and serene clothes always serve as a welcome respite.

For his fall collection, this disciplined and skilled designer sent out his trademark lean silhouettes and delicate tailoring, but this time, the clothes were slightly more severe than in previous seasons, with a moody color palette emphasizing black, gray, and red adding to the drama.

That’s not to say that the neat three-quarter length princess coats, fitted bolero tops, and body-hugging strapless dresses signified a major style change. The beauty of a designer like Mr. Rodriguez is that his customer doesn’t have to transform her wardrobe every six months. Each collection is a logical extension of the previous one, and the timeless clothes can be mixed and matched from season to season. As a result, one has the pleasure of seeing familiar themes evolve, such as the use of striking cutouts to break up a silhouette (this time evident in half-moon slices above the bust) or starkly elegant athletic influences (bathing-suit tops seamlessly incorporated into ladylike cocktail dresses).The only offbeat moment was the front row arrival of Paris Hilton, who is not exactly a poster-girl for Mr. Rodriguez’s brand of understated chic. But who knows, maybe she has decided to grow up after all.

– Johanna Lenander