When in Trieste…
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WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Riviera & Maximilian’s, Strada Costiera, 22, 39-040-224551.This four-star hotel has a wonderful view of the Gulf of Trieste and access to the beach. The flora and pleasant sea breeze makes it the Riviera Trieste’s best bet during summer months. Maximilian’s Miramar castle is a short walk and the location makes up for the cramped, unimpressive rooms. Rooms start at $120
Grief Maria Theresia, Viale Miramare 109, 39-040-410115.No other hotel in Trieste can match the elegance of this former villa, built in 1890 and renovated in 1996. The restaurant on the fourth floor is one of the finest in the city. The biggest drawback is the location, an uninteresting stretch between the center of town and the beachfront. Rooms start at $283, with deep discounts during winter months.
WHERE TO EAT
Enoteca Nanut, Via Genova, 10/E, 39-040-360642. This trendy wine spot just off the main square serves excellent Italian prosciutto and cheeses. Ask the knowledgeable staff for help selecting a local wine.
Marinella, Viale Miramare, 323, 39-040-410986. The best seafood in Trieste. Try the scampi alla busara, a rich shrimp ragout served over spaghetti.
Caffe Stella Polare, Via Dante 14, 39-040-632742. One of Joyce’s favorite hangouts. It was here that the famous writer, in a fit of jealous rage, dressed down a man who he suspected of having an affair with his wife, Nora. The man, Roberto Prezioso, was reportedly reduced to tears. Italian irredentists also found a welcome, if covert, home here.