Detached elegance and a serious sensibility ruled the runways with Monday morning’s lineup of heavy hitters. Don’t mess with this year’s woman in Oscar de la Renta. Or in Carolina Herrera, Ellen Tracy, and even Cynthia Steffe. The theme throughout was strong, classic looks for a lady who can manage a touch of genteel condescension.

Gone was the constant embellishment we saw for spring.The structured jackets and furs at Oscar de la Renta stood strong without baubles. An adorable short-sleeve shearling jacket looked bound for the Sundance Film Festival. Cashmere jackets had the sumptuous air of days devoted to lunch. Carolina Herrera, too,sent out looks that suggested bold, flat planes, such as a cream satin cocktail dress with a deep “V” of wide black lace. Ellen Tracy’s fall collection looked fit for a bookish woman enjoying a weekend in Paris – for the art, not the socializing.

Ms. Herrera, though, did not deny decoration. There were pieces in a pretty swirl print fabric, and on the gathered sleeves of several tops were delicate drawstring ties that looked like shoelaces threaded through fabric. Cynthia Steffe concentrated on military jackets with bold buttons and added pockets on the back panel – maybe for a map? Ruffles and extra caps on sleeves of sheer babydoll dresses turned up repeatedly.

High necks – on dresses and blouses (paired with slim pants) – look like they’ll be a staple for fall. Oscar de la Renta created a blue taffeta short-sleeve dress with a balloon hem and buttons up the neck. No decolletage to see here. The boatneck has returned for dresses and suits, with a nod to Jackie Kennedy in the 1960s. With all the high necklines,some designers are relying on a little trick for exposing some skin: the keyhole. At Cynthia Steffe, an ivory shift dress had a thin slit just under the neck. At Ellen Tracy, designer George Sharp used the device on a jersey shell, as well.

The palette at Ellen Tracy was dominated by blacks, whites, and camels, but a mahogany plaid in several pieces jolted the color scheme a bit: The giant squares of pixilated reddish plaid were set against white. The best look of the collection was the simplest: a white tuxedo-inspired shirt paired with a black silk taffeta pleated skirt that fell below the knee.

Though black and neutrals made a formidable showing across the shows, color was not forsaken. A bright red popped up occasionally to break it all up. A stunning red wool trench at Ellen Tracy was all a girl would need to make a serious entrance. At Oscar, several gowns and dresses in an intense red floral print were drop-dead glamorous, especially a strapless number. At Carolina Herrera, an “opera red” wool boucle was used for a straight skirt and boxy jacket combo. Red tweed also showed up in several suiting options. Do celebs really want to wear red on the red carpet? Do socialites really want to match the carpet at the Met? Regardless, the looks were divine.

Oscar also sent out a strapless gown in bubblegum pink (with a long train) that was a whiff of fresh air alongside dramatic gowns that emphasized black lace. Purple and blue fabrics for evening gowns punctuated the color palette, as did a series of long metallic gowns. Also present was a new taupe version of his successful ball gown with cascades of tulle on the skirt. At Carolina Herrera, an orangey rust color was strong in a lame dress and a mink jacket. Her collection also incorporated a pleasing combination of brown and turquoise, as in a V-neck sweater with a turquoise swirl print.

No matter what the cause of this soigne mood, the look is sexy-smart. With these clothes for fall, your best accessory might not be a handbag or a belt – but a book, let’s say Sartre, tucked under your arm.