The cover of an issue of the Jetlag Hot Guide, a satirical take on the Condé Nast Traveler-style magazine, recently led with this headline: “Tuscany Loses Hot Status: Defer Non-Essential Travel.” But I was not buying it. Sure, the half-slumbering region, which lies roughly between Florence and Rome, has seen much ink spilled in its name, as well as a film reel or two. But it was worth visiting long before it became trendy to impress your neighbors by purchasing an old farmhouse there and waving the Restoration Hardware wand over it. As a recent foray into Tuscan spa country proved, it’s hotter than ever — but maybe not for the reasons you’re thinking.

Tuscany’s thermal springs were known and enjoyed by the ancient Romans and, in some cases, by the Etruscans before them. Many hill towns and villages have harnessed the mineral-rich waters for use as municipal terme, or spas, but the one where I soaked for three days, Adler Thermae (adlerthermae.com), is a privately owned four-star resort. The resort is near the tiny village of Bagno Vignoni, to my mind the most magical village in Italy. Indeed, any Italian town whose central square is permanently covered in water and isn’t Venice has got to be worth visiting, and Bagno Vignoni certainly fits the bill. The thermal water, enjoyed not only by weary Roman soldiers, but also by the likes of St. Catherine of Siena and Lorenzo il Magnifico, bubbles up from the earth at 125 degrees. With its high calcium, magnesium, sulphate, and bicarbonate content, the water holds therapeutic benefits for bones, joints, and skin.

Today, no one goes for a soak in the rectangular water basin itself — effectively the village piazza — because the water is pumped out, notably to the Adler Thermae. But it remains a visual feast, particularly at night, when steam rises above the dark water and drifts past the ancient stone walls of the surrounding buildings before dissolving under the stars. Around the square are a smattering of cafés and upscale shops, but nothing crass or touristy.

In the airy main dining room of Adler Thermae’s restaurant, a retractable roof offers views of the rolling Tuscan hills, and because it is Tuscany, after all, organic ingredients form the basis of the cuisine. There are also more varieties of olive oil and flavored balsamic vinegars at the salad bar than chef Mario Batali would know what to do with. The wine list is gloriously Tuscan and features an array of sensual reds almost as intoxicating as drinking too much of them can make you.

Still, detox is the order of the day at the spa, starting with the three large outdoor pools into which that hot Bagno Vignoni water is pumped. The thing to do is simply float about in them, enjoying the open space and fragrant air. Inside Adler Thermae is a cluster of saunas, including the Etruscan sauna with salt steam, and Artemisia, an herbal steam room where the water is centrally heated with herbs and stones and released by steam jets. Across a small pond is the Grotta del Filosofo (the Philosopher’s Cave), a Turkish bath situated in a synthetic (but very convincing) cave. To soak in the Grotta Salina, where one floats in warm saltwater, travelers must book ahead. Some of the steam baths are noclothing zones, but one cannot always be sure, I learned.

A range of spa treatments is possible, from cranio-sacral and Ayurvedic massages to exfoliation with olive pits to a draining bath with red grapes. Some of these treatments may or may not leave you smelling like a pizza, but all are designed to take your stress level down a notch or two. A spa physician, the glowing Dr. Thomas Platzer, is on hand to advise guests on “vital aging” and will draw up individual exercise and nutrition schedules.

I love exercise about as much as the appalling exchange rate, but this did not stop me from signing up for two days of walks through the surrounding countryside. With the expert guidance of a local, Annalisa Raffeiner (0039-0577-839017 to arrange a private excursion), my companion and I ventured into the small towns and villages, including my favorite, Montepulciano. There, I toured the Contucci winery. The palazzo that houses the extensive cellars flanks the Piazza Grande and also serves as the Contucci family home. While these wines (especially the Vino Nobile and Rosso di Montepulciano varieties) are famous the world over, less known is that the family has done up one spacious room on the ground floor of the palazzo as a stand-alone suite. To call it majestic would be an understatement, and at 150 euros for the first night and 100 euros each night thereafter, calling it a bargain is right on (for a virtual look, go to residenzecontucci.it).

So travelers can sidestep the tourist centers of Pisa, Florence, and Siena altogether. Or at least consider that great works of art notwithstanding, the best of what Tuscany has to offer is often that which is found outside city walls. An ideal Tuscan sojourn, to my mind, would include two nights in Bagno Vignoni and two in Montepulciano, both perfect starting points from which to explore other hill towns or simply to linger in the still unspoiled landscapes of cypress trees, thermal springs, and a shimmering Tuscan sun.

IF YOU GO: Beginning May 31, Delta Air Lines will offer four flights a week from New York’s JFK Airport to Pisa. The new trans-Atlantic service will operate on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday, departing at 8:15 p.m., and arriving in Pisa at 11:00 a.m. the next day. Return flights are on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday, departing at 1:35 p.m. and arriving in New York at 5:05 p.m. local time.