Riding High In New Mexico

Not long ago, as I left my apartment to pick up the Sunday paper, I spotted a man skiing down the street. Despite its suggestive name, my Brooklyn neighborhood – Cobble Hill – is not ordinarily a destination for thrill-seeking skiers. But for one man at least, the 18 inches of snow that had fallen overnight were all that was necessary to transform Court Street into Colorado.Not all of us are so imaginative or easily appeased. My neighbor’s snowy jaunt, far from inspiring me to take to the streets, instilled in me a longing for an honest-to-god downhill adventure of my own. And so with visions of glistening mountain trails dancing in our heads, my boyfriend and I boarded a plane to New Mexico.The thought of New Mexico may conjure up images of red rock, tumbleweeds, and cacti, but, in fact, Santa Fe and Taos boast excellent ski areas that offer the charms and snow conditions of bigger western resorts for a fraction of the price. Much of the state has a high-desert ecosystem – hot in the summer, cold in the winter, mountainous and green. The area’s low humidity also insures that when snow does fall, it is crystalline and weightless – the stuff of skiers’ dreams. And with more than 300 blue-sky days every year, in northern New Mexico you can ski well into spring and catch some sun while swooshing down the slopes. To top it off, while tourists throng the streets of Santa Fe and Taos in summer, winter is low season in New Mexico. This means visitors can enjoy the friendly people, fabulous food, interesting art galleries, and historical sites in relative tranquility.Almost all flights into New Mexico terminate at the Albuquerque International Sunport, located in the north central part of the state, at the fringes of the Sandia Mountains. From there it is a 50-minute drive north on Interstate 25 to Santa Fe. The drive to Taos is a two-hour scenic trip north along the edge of the majestic Sangre de Cristo Mountains and the dramatic Rio Grande valley. We reserved a SUV from Thrifty for $248 for the week. While an economy car would have been cheaper, on the roads of New Mexico 4-wheel drive is useful in every season and becomes a necessity during winter.Though the car rental terminal is all most visitors see of Albuquerque, I highly recommend spending at least one night in the city. A sprawling desert town, its attractions are not initially obvious, but intrepid tourists will be rewarded to discover quirky mid-century architecture, bustling boutiques, restaurants serving regional food, and an array of outdoor activities. The delightful Sarabande Bed & Breakfast (637 Rio Grande Blvd. NW, 888-506-4923, www.sarabandebb.com; room rates $99-$179), located on the western edge of the city, along the Rio Grande, makes even a brief stay seem like a real getaway, and the Flying Star Cafe (3416 Central Ave. SE, 505-255-6633), at the heart of the hip Nob Hill shopping district, offers some of the best huevos rancheros in town.After two nights in Albuquerque, we set out for Santa Fe’s one and only ski resort, the charming, family-run Ski Santa Fe. Located in the magnificent Sangre de Cristo mountains, with a summit measuring 12,053 feet and 45 trails covering a 1,703-foot vertical drop, Ski Santa Fe is a local ski area with the appeal of a much larger mountain. An adult lift ticket ($47 a day) gives access to acres of groomed trails through delicate aspens and ponderosa pines, powdery open bowls, and challenging mogul runs. And unlike popular East Coast ski areas like Sugar Loaf and Killington, at Ski Santa Fe lift lines are virtually nonexistent, so that both going up and coming down the trails it feels like skiing on your own private mountain.A full day on the slopes can really work up your appetite, but as luck would have it, the city also has a surplus of excellent dining options. During summer and fall, getting a seat in Cafe Pasqual’s (121 Don Gaspar, 505-983-9340) is as rare as a rainstorm in Santa Fe. But in winter, the tourists thin out and locals take back the town. Don’t miss the chance to sit with them at the communal table in the middle of the brightly painted, diminutive dining room, and eat your fill of smoked trout hash, corn cakes with calabacitas, and handmade tamales.Eager for another day of alpine adventure, we set out early the next morning for Taos Ski Valley and bought lift tickets ($55 a day) before the first chair could climb the slopes. A world-class, snowboard-free mountain with an international cult following, Taos Ski Valley is one of the West’s undiscovered gems. Founded in 1955 by Swiss-born Ernie Blake, the resort is run by his children and grandchildren to this day. Their family pride, coupled with their passion for the sport, has helped make the mountain a uniquely welcoming and wondrous place to ski.Located 15 minutes north of the town of Taos, the Ski Valley is carved from the imposing 12,481-foot Kachina Peak. Featuring 110 runs and a 2,612-foot vertical drop (or a 3,244-foot drop for those who eschew the chairlift and hike to the Kachina Peak), it is a challenging mountain, heavily weighted towards intermediate and advanced runs. But despite its difficult terrain, Taos is a place that encourages skiers to set their own pace; wide, winding novice runs flank the eastern and western edges of the peak, allowing skiers to cruise leisurely down miles of open slope while gazing down on golden desert below.If you believe – as I do – that a good lodge is as essential to a proper ski resort as snow, then make sure to visit the Bavarian Lodge and Restaurant (Taos Ski Valley, 505-776-8020, www.thebavarian.net; suites: $275-$600).A privately run inn tucked midmountain behind the base of the Kachina Peak chairlift, the Bavarian is an astoundingly authentic alpine mansion. Sitting beneath hand carved beams and trompe l’oeil murals, sipping a strong mulled wine served by a man wearing lederhosen, it’s easy to forget that you’re not in the Alps.While it’s hard to leave the warm hearth of the Bavarian, at 4 p.m. the sun starts to dim, and the lifts close. Peeling off layers in the parking lot, we stuffed our skis into the car and drove back to our hotel to clean up. Romantic rooms and suites at Hacienda del Sol bed and breakfast (Highway 64, Taos, www.taoshaciendadelsol.com, 866-333-4459; room rates $115-$325) boast adobe walls, antique furniture, wood-burning fireplaces, hot tubs, private patios, and expansive views of the mountains. In winter, visitors should ask about ski packages that combine multi-day lift tickets with discounted room rates.Limbs loosened by a hot shower, we decided to enjoy a walk around town before dinner. The air was sharp and scented with juniper smoke and the sky full of stars. Though I valiantly resisting the temptation to duck into every boutique, I made a mental note of places I wanted to revisit later. Maybe tomorrow I’d have a half-day of skiing?When we finished our stroll, a meal at Doc Martin’s (125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 505-758-1977, www.taosinn.com) chased the chill away. Set near the plaza in the atmospheric Taos Inn, Doc Martin’s has an award-winning wine list and a tempting seasonal menu. Licking the last bit of Aztec chocolate mousse from my silver spoon, I sat back and smiled. What more could I want: snow, stars, and something sweet.

Riding High In New Mexico

Riding High In New Mexico

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