The Razor’s Edge

For men, shaving in dry winter air can be tricky. The key is the right technique — and the right tools.“The keys to a close shave are the technique and the tools,” the fashion editor of Details magazine, Matthew Edelstein, said.The first thing to touch the skin should be warm water. “Always shave after a hot shower,” Mr. Edelstein said. “The hot water opens your pores and softens the whiskers on your face, preparing them for an easier shave.”Next, exfoliate the skin with a mild scrub. (Coarse ones can do damage.) This removes dead skin cells, oil, and grime, all of which can stifle smoothness.According to “A Guy’s Guide to Shaving,” a tip sheet from the men’s grooming brand Destination, “Your razor will need to easily glide across the skin without scraping.”Shaving oil, cream, or both (applied in that order) will do the trick. But regardless of preference, “You want to avoid using soap or gels that will dry out the skin,” the director of Destination, Tim Milne, said.With shaving oil alone, “You can see what you’re doing,” Mr. Milne said. “A Guy’s Guide to Shaving” recommends avoiding creams that contain sodium laurel sulfate, an industrial foaming agent that is also used in floor cleaners.To further exfoliate the skin and lift the hairs, the cream can be applied with a shaving brush, preferably one made of badger hair. “Badger hair is the only hair that retains water, and is soft while durable,” the founder of the Art of Shaving, Eric Malka, said. “The lighter the hair, the higher the quality of the brush.”Then comes the shave itself. Gillette’s Mach 3 blades are recommended all around, but experts say that it’s just as important to shave with a sharp tool. A sharp blade means replacing it about once a week. “A Guy’s Guide to Shaving” recommends extending the life of the blade by dipping it in baby oil. The next time the razor is used, the oil should be removed with rubbing alcohol. This slows the oxidation process, which can cause the blade to rust and dull.Holding the blade at a 30-degree angle in one hand and holding the skin taut with the other, shave along the grain first. “Shaving against the grain will give you redness and bumps,” Mr. Edelstein said. Avoid hitting the same area twice unless necessary.“When you’re done shaving, you can’t just leave the skin raw,” the director of marketing for John Allan’s, David Cohon, said. Aftershave products with alcohol and essential oils can close pores and kill bump-causing bacteria, while a moisturizer will rehydrate the stripped skin.

The Razor’s Edge

The Razor’s Edge

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