Rock Steady

This article is from the archive of The New York Sun before the launch of its new website in 2022. The Sun has neither altered nor updated such articles but will seek to correct any errors, mis-categorizations or other problems introduced during transfer.

The New York Sun

Olympus Fashion Week kicks off today, bringing American’s top design talent to the tents at Bryant Park. But there’s one show that will draw the crowd of editors, buyers, and socialites to an unusual destination: the Roseland Ballroom. And it’s songstress Gwen Stefani who will get them there.


Ms. Stefani, with her eclectic collection L.A.M.B (which stands for Love. Angel. Music. Baby.), is fashion’s pop star of the moment. She’s certainly not the first to blend fashion, music, and celebrity. Last year, Jennifer Lopez held a dramatically produced show to bring her J.Lo line to the fore. And before that, Kimora Lee Simmons and Sean Combs tapped into the powerful mix with Baby Phat and Sean Jean, respectively. (All continue to do so, with varying degrees of success.)


Artists from other fields who make a foray into fashion have the advantage of causing a splash, but it usually comes with the acknowledgement that the singer/actress/ex-model is not exactly the one who cuts, draws, and drapes.


What is refreshing about Ms. Stefani’s approach is her admission that her line is a true collaboration. She developed the collection with co-designer Zaldy and stylist Andrea Lieberman. For Ms. Stefani, fashion – like her music and her own look – is a result of reaching out and pulling new ideas into the mix.


What’s more, L.A.M.B. distinguishes itself with its staggering multiplicity of influences. Ms. Stefani is a longtime devotee of Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, and shoe designer Christian Louboutin. She’s fascinated with the style cultivated by young girls in the Harajuku district of Tokyo – and adapted the look for her onstage performances. She has said that her clothes for Spring 2006 draw from the look of Jane Russell, British military clothing, and Rastafarian style.


She even looks to fine art for inspiration. Upon meeting Brooklyn artist John Copeland, she bought one of his paintings and asked him to design the logo – in Old English font – for her clothing label, as well as the text on her album’s cover and notes. Mr. Copeland found that their affinity was based on their shared intensity. “I think it has to do with everybody making stuff all the time,” he said. “We both have a lot of influences. For me, it’s everything from artwork to music to things I see every day.”


Perhaps what gives Ms. Stefani the ability to play with so many concepts and come up with something fresh is that she’s been at it a while. Back in 1987, while living in her hometown of Anaheim, Calif., she formed the rock band No Doubt with her brother, Eric, and her then-boyfriend, Tony Kanal. The group became known for its aggressive, likable blend of ska and rock. The integration of various music styles continued, even to her current album, which is also her first solo effort. To create the work, also called Love. Angel. Music. Baby., she brought in brand names from the music world – Dr. Dre and Andre 3000 – to round out her work.


A look back at her style from the early days, too, shows that she has always had an eye for attention-getting combinations. Ms. Stefani is unlike Madonna in that she doesn’t reinvent herself every other year. To the contrary, she has refined and expanded the look that has been her signature since the ska-inflected launch of No Doubt.


For a long time, it was her stage look that was in the public eye. Her style at times has been simpler than it is today. There were straightforward outfits, such as the white ribbed tank, a low-riding belt to show her rasta colors, and baggy military cargo pants. The shirts tended to get smaller – tube tops and bikini tops – while the pants stayed long, in either super-tight or baggy shapes. A punk element, especially British punk, emerged now and then, with long suspenders, black-and-white checked belts, and plaid pants.


Even now, as she reaches around the globe for inspiration, you can still see the origins of that look in performance. She has, though, come a long, long way, working in style references from Goth Lolita and Alice in Wonderland to L.A. chola style.


Now that she has broadened her career to include acting and fashion, Ms. Stefani has become a cultural icon, photographed no matter where she is. At red carpet arrivals, she is all about glamour, in a ’50s film-star manner. In public, she is never without full makeup, especially her bright red lipstick. And from in the confluence of her elegant Hollywood look and the theatrics of the stage costumes comes a fashion label with pieces that the rest of us could wear.


But will we? Friday’s show will present the spring 2006 collection, and pieces from the previous L.A.M.B. collection are available at Saks Fifth Avenue and Henri Bendel. Also on the www.L-A-M-B.com website are sailor pants ($245) that have more of a Gwen style than the skinny “high heel” pants ($195). Her lower-priced line, Harajuku Lovers, features Tshirts, hats, and intimates for $30 to $90 at retailers including Big Drop and Urban Outfitters.


It remains to be seen whether Ms. Stefani’s label will be a long-running concern or a few-season wonder. Either way, we’re in the middle of a very Gwen moment.


The New York Sun

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