Fiery Reds, Dappled Prints In Cruise Wear Fashion Forecast

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The New York Sun

You may still be shopping for summer 2008, but for the past few weeks, fashion designers have been presenting their pre-spring 2009 collections. Traditionally referred to as “resort” or “cruise,” these collections give a gal something to wear on her trip to St. Barts in January and February — and they extend a designer’s opportunity for selling warm-weather clothing.

Although the looks shown here won’t be available for months, the pre-spring 2009 collections can offer fashion addicts some hints at the direction fashion will take in the months ahead. With a few wise choices from what’s in stores now, some trends from pre-spring 2009 — especially in colors and hemlines — can be worked into your current wardrobe.

A bright palette of colors is standard fare for pre-spring, and for several 2009 collections, varitions on aqua blue and coral red were well represented. Oscar de la Renta showed a blue strapless gown with a cascade of pleated ruffles on the skirt. At Dior, a fiesta palette reigned, but an embellished two-piece jacket in a pretty shade of turquoise echoed the poolside theme of the show. A luscious shade of red has popped up in several collections, too. At Celine, a creamy coral fabric was used for sleeveless dresses and full skirts, while dresses made from a bold shade called azalea stood out at Max Azria. Charles Nolan used a deep brick red for a belted cotton trench. Even at Costume National, known for its devotion to black, suits were shown in a flaming red. Likewise, at Bottega Veneta, where the color palette has been muted in recent seasons, vibrant shades of coral turned up on color-blocked dresses.

Though floral prints have dominated the runways for both spring and fall 2008, the next step of that trend is toward more mottled prints and smudged colors. A tiered sheath dress at Dior was cut from a white fabric dotted with faded black-eyed Susans. Several dresses at Max Azria were made in a print that suggested the dappled sunlight and shadows cast by overhanging trees. Elie Tahari brushed hazy watercolor prints onto a feather-light one-shoulder dress and flowy blouses of mauve, black, and crème. Mr. Tahari repeated the painterly designs on cuffed shorts meant to show off the leg.

Both Dior and Oscar de la Renta showed a classic summer look: wide-leg white pants paired with summery tops. At Oscar, the black-and-white sleeveless sweater was polished and pulled together. At Dior, the hot pink puffed-sleeve blouse was all about va-va-voom. Crisp white skirts were a staple for Charles Nolan, who emphasized a classic, American look accented with red and navy blue.

In a trend that could be applied to more than one season, leather jackets turned up in statement colors: bright blue at BCBG and Costume National and a soft gold at Celine. At Bottega Veneta, tough leather skirts were made in crimson and cobalt.

As for skirt lengths, miniskirts were far less frequent than maxi dresses, but a recurring theme was a prim, knee-skimming hemline. And this flattering shape was executed just right at Bottega Veneta, where Tomas Maier gives his clients just the right amount of swish in full skirts.

With reporting by Rebecca Thomas


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